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7 tips to make things go quicker, faster, and easier | Back to the top

Some bilge pumps come equipped with an internal automatic float switch. If your bilge pump does not have a float switch, adding one is a very good idea.

A float switch measures the water level in the bilge and activates the bilge pump when the water level becomes too high. All bilge pumps can be retrofitted with an automatic float switch. These switches should be wired directly to the battery positive terminal so that they operate even when the boat is not in use.

Consult your marine parts dealer to select the correct automatic float switch for your application. He will also be able to supply the necessary fuse holders, fuses, terminals and wire required to complete the installation.

To install the float switch, locate the lowest part of the bilge and orientate the switch in the fore and aft direction. Some boats have a built in pad for mounting the pump and switch with small self-tapping screws. If your boat does not have this pad, you may want to use epoxy glue to hold the switch down.

Locate the brown wire coming from the bilge pump and cut it about 18” from the pump. Connect and crimp one of the wires from the auto float switch to one of the cut brown wires in one end of a waterproof butt splice connector. Slide the remaining brown wire to the other end of the butt splice connector and crimp. Attach the remaining wire from the float switch to one end of a waterproof fuse holder and the other end of the fuse holder attaches to the battery positive terminal. Install a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse holder. To test the installation, simply lift up on the float switch and the pump should run. You can also turn on the bilge pump from dashboard switch.

If the float switch does not come with a cover to keep debris from getting stuck under the switch arm, purchase the appropriate part from your marine parts dealer.

Adding Cleats | Back to the top

It always seems your boat never has enough cleats to adequately tie your boat to the dock. Sometimes the cleats are so poorly located for your docking situation you have to be a contortionist to secure your boat in the slip. A missing cleat on the foredeck will certainly ruin your anchoring pleasure. Adding cleats can make your boating trips a lot easier.

There are many different styles of cleats. Some have only two mounting holes, the better have four. Select a style of cleat that is consistent with the others on the boat. Once again the best cleat to use is stainless. Make sure there is plenty of room to insert at least two dock lines of the size you normally use through the center of the cleat.

Choose a location for the new cleat that allows easy access to the underside of the deck. You will need this access to fasten the hardware and backing plates that will secure the cleat. If a location cannot be found with access, you can cut an opening and use a screw in deck plate to cover the access hole. Deck plates come in various sizes between 4 and 10 inches. Obtain the deck plate before cutting the hole so you will know the exact size hole to cut.

Use the cleat to mark the deck location for the four mounting holes. Drill the mounting holes using the proper size bit to provide a clearance hole required for the mounting hardware selected. Use only stainless steel machine screws, washers, lock washers, and fender washers as backing plates. If the new cleat will be required to hold a heavy load, an additional backing plate is needed to spread the load over a wider area. The backing plate should be a suitable thickness to support the forces exerted on the cleat. Apply a small amount of sealer to the underside of the mounting holes of the cleat. Place a small dab of sealer into the mounting holes on the deck and install the screws thru the cleat and into the deck. The sealer will keep water from entering from the deck. Place the fender washer, lock washer, and nut on the screw and tighten. The cleat is now ready to use.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Dear Boat Talk: My boat always seems to ride with the bow up in the air at cruising speed. Would trim tabs be useful in correcting this condition? Are they easy to install? HR, San Remo, NY

Dear HR: Regardless of whether you have inboard or outboard power, trim tabs add a tremendous benefit to efficiency, safety, and performance. They solve a multitude of problems including list or lean to either port or starboard, bows that ride too high, sterns that plow too low, boats difficult to plane, or boats that ride wet and rough. It’s guaranteed they will get you up on plane faster by providing more lift in the transom like the flaps on an airplane wing. A well balanced powerboat gets on plane faster, handles better, and runs with less fuel eating drag which is important when fuel is approaching $2.00 or more a gallon.

With average mechanical skills, you should be able to install a trim tab system yourself. A project of this type will take about 4-5 hours.

There are several suppliers of trim tab systems. They all produce a complete line of trim tab systems and controls to fit any size boat. In the world of trim tabs, size does matter. Stop by your local marine supply store and ask for assistance to determine the correct size trim tab for your application.

All of the trim tab manufacturers offer a complete installation kit. Packaged within the kit you will find a complete set of components to install the system. Included in the kit is a pair of stainless steel trim tabs with actuators, waterproof rocker switch, either a hydraulic power unit, or electrically operated actuator assembly, all hydraulic lines and fittings and an installation video. Each manufacturer also makes a number of accessories, such as an indicator to determine the position of the tabs, and an automatic tab retractor that resets the tabs to neutral each time the ignition is turned on.

With basic hand tools and with the help of a complete set of instructions packed with each kit, you should be able to successfully install the system. Begin by locating the trim tabs on the transom of the boat. Make sure they are as close to the port and starboard chine as possible, never closer than eight inches from the centerline of the drive or outboard.

For those of you with a hydraulic trim tab system, install the hydraulic pump unit at the transom of the boat. Two hydraulic lines will run from the pump unit, one to each port and starboard trim tab actuator. Connect the main power leads from the pump unit to the main battery and run the control cable to the dashboard. Locate the control switch where it will be accessible easily while underway. Mount the switch and connect the control wires. Fill the hydraulic pump unit with the automatic transmission fluid. Once filled, cycle the port and starboard trim tabs up and down and top off the hydraulic pump unit.

If you selected an electric trim tab system, there will be no hydraulic pump unit and hydraulic lines to install. Instead connect the control wires coming from the actuators directly to the control switch at the dash. Installation is the same as described above.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: I just bought a new boat this year. When must I decommission the boat for winter? JW, Bayshore NY

A: Dear JW: Winterization is a term used for preparing and storing the boat and engine for the colder winter months. Winterization is an important part of the routine maintenance that must be done when owning a boat. During winterization, the engine is run dry of fuel and a fogging agent is introduced into the engine which protects against rust by coating the internal surfaces.

Winterization should also include adding anti-freeze to an I/O engine as well as to water systems to protect against freezing which can distort and even destroy these parts. The gear case lube should also be drained and inspected for color to make sure that no water has entered during seasonal operation.

Winterization encompasses a list of tasks to keep your boat safe and secure. Some of them are stabilizing the gas, wrapping the boat, and storing the accessories.

If your boat has an I/O engine you must be very aware of the potential cold weather. If your boat is in the water, the temperature of the water will help protect against freezing, as it will retain the warmth generated during the summer. If your I/O boat is on a trailer, or being stored in a high and dry facility, the boat must be winterized before freezing temperatures occur.

For outboard boats, the season is a bit longer, but the engine must be kept in the vertical position. In this position, water will drain out before it has a chance to freeze.

Trying to use your boat throughout the winter is an invitation to disaster. If the boat is stored in the water, freezing waters could crush the boat hull. Ice could also form in the bilge making your bilge pump useless. If the boat fills with water, it could sink when the bilge pump fails to operate.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am getting my boat ready for spring launch. I know I have to paint the bottom of the boat. Do I need to paint the engine as well? JJ, Coram, NY.

Dear JJ: When a boat is kept in the water for an extended period of time, the bottom must be protected with bottom paint against marine growth such as barnacles. Most bottom paints are ablative. That is, a small amount of paint is sloughed off each time the boat is driven exposing a fresh concentration of the biocide material. The biocide material keeps the barnacles away from the boat bottom. Paint is like cod liver oil to the barnacles, they hate the taste. With ablative paints, the more the boat is used the cleaner the bottom. Most ablative paints last only one season and should be applied at the beginning of each boating season.

Unwanted critters not only attach themselves to the boat bottom but also to engine parts that are submerged in salt water. If your engine is an outboard and the trim and tilt system allows the lower unit to come completely out of the water at the dock, then antifouling paint is not required. On the other hand, if you have an outboard or stern drive that does not come completely out of the water, you must apply antifouling paint to protect against unwanted passengers. The bottom paint used on your boat cannot be used on these engine parts as they are made of aluminum. The paint used on your boat bottom contains copper as the active biocide ingredient, while the engine requires a paint that contains tin. Since these tin based paints are restricted use paints, they cannot be sold over the counter in large quantities without the proper license. They are generally sold in 16 ounce spray containers to the public.

When getting your outboard ready, you should touch up the bare spots and scratches with the original manufacturers paint to prevent corrosion to the aluminum parts. The antifouling paint should be applied to those parts the are in contact with the water when the engine is not in use. Painting the propeller is not necessary since once the engine is put in use the antifouling paint will wear off rapidly.

Stern drives should have both the lower unit and intermediate housing painted. Make sure to tilt the lower unit up and apply paint to the exposed inner parts of the intermediate housing to prevent unwanted tenants from establishing barnacle hotels.

In general, most boats should be launched after allowing sufficient drying time for the paint, usually, within thirty days. Read the label directions on the paint can for more specific details.

Dear Boat Talk: What is involved in painting a boat bottom for the first time? PB, Port Jefferson NY.

Dear PB: To begin the process of applying bottom paint for the first time, you need to know where the water line will be on your boat. The correct way to do this is to launch the boat with the engine installed and a full tank of fuel. Allow the boat to sit for a few hours to establish a water line mark on the hull.

Remove the boat from the water and let the water mark dry completely. Use masking tape to follow the water line mark leaving about a two-inch space above the water line. This allows for the added weight of passengers and equipment on the boat. Clean the bottom of all debris and de-wax the hull below the water line. Wax is used when building the boat to help remove the boat from the mold after it has cured. Use clean rags to remove all of the wax. Commercial de-waxers are available in all marine stores.

Apply a bottom paint primer using a wide brush or roller. The primer prepares the boat bottom to accept the bottom paint. Allow the primer to dry before applying bottom paint using a paint roller. Remove the masking tape and you will have an even water line on your boat.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: My marina will no longer allow me to bottom paint my own boat. How come? JW, Shoreham NY.

A Dear JW: Bottom painting by individuals at their respective marina’s has been prohibited since the early 1990’s. This year the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC) has redefined and clarified regulations regarding bottom painting.

For a marina or boatyard to apply bottom paint, there must be a certified commercial pesticide applicator on premises and the marina must have a valid pesticide business registration. To become a certified pesticide applicator, one must attend a forty-hour training course and pass a written examination. Afterwards, he must take an additional 10 hours of training within a six-year period to remain certified.

A commercial pesticide apprentice must be an employee of the marina or boatyard and have taken the required training for this position. He can only engage in the application of pesticides (bottom paint) under the direct supervision of a certified commercial pesticide applicator associated with the marina or boatyard.

The DEC further states that a customer of a marina or boatyard cannot become an “apprentice-for-the-day” and engage in the application of bottom paint even though he may be under the direct supervision of a certified commercial applicator associated with the marina.

If you wish to do your own bottom painting, it must be a boat that you own or lease on property that you own or lease. Winter storage does not constitute a lease of the land upon which the boat sits. Likewise, you cannot paint your boat on the street or your boat on your neighbor’s property, or you neighbor’s boat on your property.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: Please Help! What would be the correct method to repair floatation in the hull liner of my 1977 Robalo? The previous owner drilled holes in the cabin floor and now water just collects and holds there. The floatation material is crumbling and I am afraid of the damage from it icing over the winter. PH, New Hyde Park,NY.

A: Dear PH: The only cure for wet floatation is to remove it completely from the hull of the boat. This will require the removal of the floor of the boat to expose all the affected areas. You will probably find more wet areas than you originally thought. Cut or saw the foam material from the hull and let the boat dry out completely. The old foam is no longer useable and should be thrown out. Check the condition of the stringers to make sure they have not become water logged. Repair any rotten areas of the stringers.

The boat builder originally installed the floor in place before filling the voids with foam. For your repair, you may want to fill the area with spray foam before putting the floor in place. Spray foam is available from most marine supply stores.

To prevent the new foam from becoming wet again, you will have to make sure all voids and seams of the floor are sealed to keep water from entering. To do this you could use silicone sealer or better yet, fiberglass over the floor. This is not an easy job, but once completed, you may find the boat performs better minus all that weight from the wet foam.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: Why does my husband always leave by 3 AM to go fishing? GN Yaphank NY

A: Dear GN: Would you get out of bed that early to go fishing? Probably not! That’s why he leaves so early. It’s a man thing!

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: When I go out fishing I usually take my favorite “beverage”. Now I hear that the government is cracking down on alcohol while boating. Is this true?

TG, Huntington NY

A: Dear TG: The US Coast Guard has initiated a major nation wide campaign to warn Americans about the dangers of alcohol consumption and boating. The Coast Guard is using a three-fold approach to reducing alcohol related accidents:

Improved law enforcement in cooperation with the States
An improved accident reporting system to identify alcohol related accidents
Wide spread education and public awareness of the dangers of alcohol

It is unlawful in every State to operate a boat while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. In addition to State Boating While Intoxicated (BWI) Laws, there is also a federal law, enforced by the Coast Guard, prohibiting BWI. This law applies to all boats, including foreign vessels, in US waters and US vessels on the high seas.

Alcohol, with its well-known ability to impair performance, creates an even more hazardous situation when added to the stress of the marine environment. This is because the marine environment, the fluid base, motion, vibration, engine noise, and elements of sun, wind and spray- accelerate impairment. The operator’s coordination, judgement, and reaction time are reduced by fatigue caused by these stressors. A boat operator with a blood alcohol concentration above .10 percent is estimated to be more than 10 times as likely to be killed in a boating accident as boat operators with zero blood alcohol concentration. Further, alcohol can be more treacherous for boaters since they are less experienced and less confident on the water than on the highway. Recreational boaters do not have the advantage of experiencing daily operation of a boat. In fact boaters average only about 110 hours of boating in a whole year. And in areas with seasonal boating, there can be months between boating outings or fishing trips.

Drinking alcohol produces certain physiological responses that directly affect safety and well being. Among these are:

Judgement and skills deteriorate, affecting peripheral vision, balance, and ability to process information.
Physical performance and reaction time are reduced.
Alcohol reduces depth perception, night vision, focus, and the ability to distinguish colors, especially red and green.
Alcohol consumption can result in inner ear disturbance, which can make it impossible for a person suddenly immersed in water to distinguish up from down.
Alcohol creates a sense of warmth and may prevent a person in cold water from getting out before hypothermia sets in.

When the Coast Guard determines that an operator is impaired, the voyage will be terminated. The vessel will be brought to mooring either by Coast Guard tow, a member of the Coast Guard crew, or a competent, sober, person on board of the recreational vessel. Depending on the circumstances, the operator may then be arrested, detained until sober but most likely he will be turned over to State or local authorities.

In the event the Coast Guard has stopped a boat for an otherwise routine inspection, and observes the operator to be under the influence, a field sobriety test will be given. Upon failure of this test, the operator will be turned over to local authorities.

Boating doesn’t need any stimulus to make is fun. Fishing doesn’t need any liquid bait to improve the catch.
Consider these alternatives to alcohol and boating:

Take along a variety of sodas, a jug of water, ice tea, or lemonade, or take along non-alcoholic beer.
Take along plenty of food.
Wear clothes that will keep you cool.
Plan to limit your trip to the number of hours you can spend on the water without becoming tired.
Enjoy your outing more by having the party ashore after you dock- in the picnic area, in the yacht club, in your backyard- where you’ll have time between the fun and getting back into a boat or your car.

If you dock somewhere for lunch or dinner and drink alcohol, wait a reasonable time before heading back home.

If necessary, be sure to have a sober designated driver as the boat operator. Or better yet, in case of emergency, have two designated non-drinking operators.

No alcohol aboard is the safe way to go- remember, intoxicated passenger can fall overboard too!

This subject is near and dear to us as we almost lost a friend due to alcohol. We were asleep aboard our boat, which was docked in the marina. Our neighbors on the next boat had been entertaining guests that evening. Late that night, Conrad awoke to the sound of our friend calling for Judy to come talk. Not getting a response, our friend attempted to board our boat and fell into the water between the boats.

Luckily, Conrad heard the splash and awoke Judy and we both attempted to rescue the person in the water. The person could not assist in saving themselves, so Judy summoned extra help from neighboring boats while Conrad held the person above water. With help, we were finally able to retrieve the person from the water. This situation could have easily turned into an unfortunate drowning at the dock!

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: I’ve heard many different “rules of thumb” on when to change riser and manifolds on my V-8 I/O powered boat. Besides running warm or overheating, are there any other early symptoms to look for? JS, Hauppauge, NY.

A: Dear JS: The risers and manifolds are responsible for conducting exhaust and heat away from the motor while underway. The manifolds collect the engine exhaust as they are attached to the exhaust ports of the engine. Cooling water from the engine’s coolant systems also flows thru the manifold in separate passages and then into the riser where the cooling water is mixed with the exhaust gases and directed toward the back of the boat for discharge. Most manifolds and risers are constructed of cast iron. The manifolds are molded into the shape of a hollow log and are located on each side of your V-8 engine. Some risers are attached in the center of the manifold, others are attached to the rear of the manifold. Both mounting styles are similar to a chimney o the roof of a house. Risers extend six to eight inches above the manifold before making a sharp turn towards the rear of the boat. The riser is always above the water line to keep the outside water from flowing back into the engine. This sharp turn or angle is where most clogging problems occur.

Because of the materials used in the manifold and risers, the extreme exhaust temperatures, and the fact that most engines are cooled with salt water, corrosion and scale from the salt build up to clog the rather small cooling water passages. Unfortunately this begins to happen from day one. Flushing with fresh water after each use will help to some degree. However there is not much you can do in the way of preventative maintenance to extend the life of the manifolds and risers.

Early warning signs of failure are slowly increasing engine temperature from year to year and engine overheating especially at high RPM’s. If the engine overheats at a high RPM and returns to normal temperature at a lower RPM, it is a sure sign of restricted cooling water flow and most likely, the manifolds and risers will be defective. Occasionally this condition could also mean you have a defective sea water pump. These pumps should be changed during normal maintenance. We would recommend changing the water pump every third season and more often for heavier use.

A leaking gasket between the manifold and riser is another sign that there may be a problem. A leaking gasket can be caused by poor gasket sealing surface, failure of the gasket material, or loose mounting bolts caused by overheating. Water leaking outward from the manifold/riser joint may also mean water could be leaking into the exhaust gas passage of the manifold as well. This leak could fill one or more of the engine cylinders with water. This is a dangerous condition which could result in complete failure of the engine.

Risers and manifolds have on the average a useful life of five to eight years. Newer style manifolds and riser using different materials should provide longer useful life.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Is it time to change your lower unit lube? How, you ask, do I do this without making myself a candidate for the hot oil wresting tournament? Most outboard and stern drive manufacturers suggest changing lower unit lube oil every 50 to 100 hours or at least once per season. So this is not a job you can put off until another day.

If your motor is brand new, the lower unit lube should be changed during the first 10 to 20 hours of use. Most new engines have a special break-in lubricant especially for this purpose. This procedure should be done by an authorized service center. The mechanic will also check the lube for metal particles, which indicates excessive wear during the break-in period and may require additional repair.

For a routine gear oil change, grab a container of sufficient capacity to hold the old gear oil. (Don't be like our nephew who used his wife's good Tupperware container!) Make sure the container can be placed under the lower unit in order to catch all of the old oil. Obtain the correct quantity and type of gear oil recommended by the motor's manufacturer. A lube pump will also make your task easier. In addition, you will need new drain and vent screw gaskets as well as a large screwdriver.

Locate the oil drain screw and the oil vent screw on the lower unit. Your owner's manual has a complete diagram showing the locations of each. Place the container under the drain screw opening. Remove the upper or vent screw. Next remove the lower or drain screw to allow the gear oil to flow out into the waste container. Please dispose of the waste oil in the proper fashion.

Observe the appearance of the gear oil as it begins to flow out of the lower unit. The gear oil should look similar to new gear oil. If it appears dirty, too much time has elapsed since the last gear oil change. If the gear oil smells pungent, your lower unit is most likely in need of expert attention to determine the cause of this type of failure. If the gear oil looks milky, water is present in the lower unit. Seek expert attention immediately! If metal filings are observed, bring a large bag of money when you seek expert attention.

Refill the lower unit by attaching the lube pump to the bottom or drain screw opening. Continue filling the lower unit until lube oozes from the vent opening. Place one of the gaskets on the vent screw and insert the vent screw and tighten. Remove the lube pump from the drain opening and replace the drain screw with its new gasket into the drain opening and tighten.

Make sure to change the lower unit lube at the end of your boating season. This way you will insure that there is no water contamination to seize the gears and cause a very expensive repair in the spring.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Changing spark plugs should be done as part of the annual routine maintenance tune up of your motor. Spark plugs ignite the fuel air mixture within the cylinders to produce the power required to propel the boat. Because they are in a harsh environment consistently exposed to high heat and explosive forces during the combustion process, they will wear out over the season. Malfunctioning engines expose spark plugs to even worse conditions.

Changing spark plugs is not a difficult task. If you are changing them as part of routine maintenance simply replace with the same type as originally installed in the engine. Only use those spark plugs recommended by the engine manufacturer.

Disconnect the spark plug wire connected to the top of the plug by twisting and gently pulling the cap off the plug. Using a suitable wrench, remove each plug. Keep them in order so that you know which plug came out of each cylinder. When you have removed all the plugs, compare the condition of each. They should appear similar. If one appears different than all the rest, you may have a problem with that cylinder. Unless you are going to fix the engine yourself, it is best to put the plugs back into their respective cylinders and let a professional take a look at the engine. Valuable troubleshooting information will be lost by not leaving the old spark plugs in their original positions.

If the old spark plugs look normal, simply replace with the new plugs. Tighten spark plugs to the recommended torque specifications. Proper torque is crucial to heat transfer and prevention of combustion gas leakage. Too little torque or too much torque can result in premature plug failure or misfire.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q: Dear Boat Talk: I would like to extend my boating season well into December this year. Are there cold weather tips you could pass along? CMG, Babylon NY

A: Dear CMG: In the off season, the waters are less crowded with boaters and fishermen work their favorite coves nearly undisturbed. However, the water is cold (less than 60 degrees) and because there are fewer boaters on the waters, the likelihood of a prompt rescue is greatly reduced. Off-season boaters must be as self sufficient as possible.

Protective clothing such as wet suits or dry suits can greatly improve safety on the water. Cold water removes heat from the body 25 times faster than cold air. A large percentage of that heat loss occurs through the head. Physical activity such as swimming or struggling in the water increases heat loss. Survival time is reduced to minutes.

The cold shock from these extreme cold water temperatures can result in the following:

1. Without a life jacket, a victim may inhale while under water and drown without coming back to the surface. This can only be prevented by wearing a life jacket at all times while in cold water. There is no second chance.

2. Exposure of the head and chest to cold water causes sudden increases in heart rate and blood pressure that may result in cardiac arrest.

3. Other responses to cold water immersion result in immediate loss of consciousness and drowning.

Hypothermia, which is decreased body temperature, develops more slowly than the immediate effects of cold shock. Survival curves show that an adult dressed in average clothing may remain conscious for an hour at 40 degrees and perhaps two to three hours at 50 degrees water temperature. Any movement in the water accelerates heat loss. Hands become numb and useless. Swimming is not possible without thermal protection. The victim, although conscious, is soon helpless. Without the support of a life jacket drowning is inevitable. Shivering occurs as body temperature drops from 97 degrees to about 90 degrees. Uncontrolled rapid breathing follows the initial gasping response and may cause loss of consciousness. Muscle rigidity and loss of manual dexterity occurs at about 93 degrees. Mental capacity also begins to deteriorate at this point. When the body’s core temperature reaches 86 degrees, unconsciousness will occur. Death will occur at a core temperature of about 80 degrees if drowning doesn’t occur first.

If you should fall into the water try to get back in or on your boat immediately. Do not leave the boat. If you are not wearing thermal protection and cannot get out of the water, stay as still as possible. Fold arms, cross legs, and float calmly on the buoyancy of your personal floation device until help arrives. If two or more people are in the water, put your arms around one another and stay still and close together.

When rescuing a submerged person, the cold-water treatment of hypothermia should be begin immediately.

Mild hypothermia is when the victim is shivering but coherent. Move the victim to a place of warmth. Remove wet clothes, give warm, sweet drinks: no alcohol or caffeine. Keep the victim warm for several hours.

Moderate hypothermia is when shivering may decrease or stop. The victim may seem irrational with deteriorating coordination. Treat the same as above but give no drinks. The victim should be kept lying down with torso, thighs, head, and neck covered with dry clothes, coats, or blankets to stop further heat loss. Seek medical attention immediately.

In severe hypothermia, shivering may have stopped and the victim may resist help or be semi-conscious or unconscious. After removing the victim from water, keep the victim prone, on his back and immobile. The victim must be handled gently. Cover torso, thighs, head and neck with dry covers to stop further heat loss. Arms and legs must not stimulated in any manner. Cold blood in the extremities that suddenly returns to the core may induce cardiac arrest. Seek medical attention immediately.

The victim appears dead with little or no breathing or pulse and the body is rigid. Assume the victim can be revived. Look for faint pulse or breathing for two minutes. If any trace is found, do not give CPR. It can cause cardiac arrest. Medical help is imperative. If pulse and breathing are totally absent, trained medical personnel should start CPR.

If you are planning on going boating during the cold weather, make sure to do the following:

Wear clothing that permits safe cold water immersion and a life jacket. The common advice to wear layers of wool, nylon, or polypropylene is misleading. These fabrics do not effectively retard heat loss in cold water. They are warm when damp after being rung out due to air trapped in the fibers. They must be worn inside a waterproof barrier having neoprene or latex gaskets at ankles, waist, wrists, and neck. Fleece lined wet suit grade polartec clothing is rated equal to 2.5 mm of neoprene and is comfortable under outer clothes.

Carry dry clothing in a waterproof bag.
Tie a bailer and paddle to your boat.
Evaluate the floation in your boat.
Tie a short sling to the transom with a footrest in a loop to assist boat reentry.
Attach a whistle or horn to your life vest.
Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Don’t forget to inform them when you return.
Check the weather forecast for the day.
Watch the boats around you. You should be depending on one another for prompt rescue in case of an accident.

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Q & A Boat Talk | Back to the top

Dear Boat Talk: During my annual visit to the local boat shows I noticed many engine manufacturers now have “4-stroke” outboard engines as well as fuel injected motors. What are these and how are they different from older engines? MB, Coram, NY.

Dear MB: The majority of outboard motors since their inception have employed “2-stroke” and carburetor technology. “2-stroke” engines get their name from the fact that power is produced on each revolution of the piston within the cylinder. On the upward stroke of the piston fresh gas, air, and lubricating oil enter the cylinder while exhaust gases are removed. As the piston continues upward the fuel/air charge is compressed and ignited at or near the top of the piston travel by the spark plug thereby producing an explosion of power. This pushes the piston downward within the cylinder. One upward and one downward stroke of the piston produces the term “2-stroke” engine.

One of the major disadvantages of the “2-stroke” engine is that the fresh gas and air mixture is entering the cylinder while the exhaust gases are being released. This allows a certain amount of the unburned gases to escape into the atmosphere. Unburned gases and other contaminates such as carbon monoxide, etc., (from all internal combustion engines) are a major cause of air pollution.

“4-stroke” engines, which are very similar to your automobile engine, use valves to allow the fresh fuel mixture to enter the combustion chamber and another set of valves to allow the exhaust gases to evacuate the cylinder. On the first upward stroke of the piston, air and fuel have entered the cylinder via the opened intake valve from the previous cycle while the exhaust valve is closed. The upward travel of the piston compresses the air/fuel mixture. At or near the top of the piston’s travel, the spark plug fires igniting an explosion which produces power pushing the piston downward. On its next trip upward the piston pushes the burned gases out the opened exhaust valve while the intake valve remains closed. On the next downward stroke of the piston the opened intake valve allows the fresh charge of gas and air to enter the cylinder. The cycle then repeats. It takes 4 strokes of the piston to produce a complete cycle of operation hence the term “4-stroke”.

In the outboard world, the 4-stroke engine tends to be slightly heavier than its 2-stroke counterpart. Additionally, the 4-stroke does not burn any oil. Oil is contained within an oil reservoir and used only for lubrication purposes. 4-strokes also offer much quieter operation than the 2-stroke.

Fuel injection refers to the method by which the air/fuel mixture enters the cylinders. The older designs rely upon carburetors which mix the air and gasoline together with the use of jets to meter either the air or gas.

The newest fuel injection systems use separate injectors which allow precise amounts of fuel to enter the cylinder along with air. These systems rely upon a computer controller to monitor the speed, temperature, and load on the engine to determine exact amount of fuel required. This generally results in a cleaner running engine since there is no excess fuel in the cylinder.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: How efficient is a fresh water cooling system as opposed to a raw-water cooling system in terms of engine life, replacement of manifolds, risers, etc.? I use my boat about 50 to 60 hours per season. Also, do engine flushes work to reduce salt and corrosion? AB, Smithtown, NY.

A: Dear AB: A freshwater or closed cooling system, uses permanent anti-freeze and fresh water mixture (in a 50-50 ratio) to keep the engine block at the proper operating temperature. The coolant flow through this closed system includes the engine block, water circulation pump, thermostat, exhaust manifolds, and the heat exchanger. Raw or seawater still circulates through the seawater pickup, into the sea water circulation pump, through the heat exchanger, into the risers, and finally out the exhaust.

The benefits of a closed cooling system are well known. A large section of the cooling system is protected from the corrosive effects of salt water, thereby extending the life of these components. You can expect to have about double the life for these components.

The risers are located on top of the exhaust manifolds and connect to the exhaust collector at the stern of the boat. These curved metal tubes are generally the first components to succumb to the effects of salt water. Clogging occurs at the curve or bend in the riser and is the cause of replacement. In the fresh water system, salt water is introduced into the riser after the bend.

You can add a fresh water cooling system to your salt-water cooled engine. Kits are available from the engine manufacturer for this retrofit and typically cost around two thousand dollars plus installation. If your boat is a current model, the engine is equipped with high tech materials to combat the effects of salt water.

Your closed cooling system will still require regular maintenance. Every second year, the antifreeze should be drained and refilled. The heat exchanger should also be opened and cleaned at this time as well. If your boat is a newer model, check your owners manual for coolant replacement as some manufacturers have begun using anti-freeze which does not require changing for a longer period of time.

Regular flushing of the raw water cooling system will help to keep the effects of salt water to a minimum. Some owners have installed quick and easy flush out systems using a few hoses and plumbing fittings, so that after every use this can easily be done. Other use flushettes or earmuffs, which need to be used on land since they are impractical to use in the water. At the very least, you should flush the raw water system of your engine at the end of each season.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I just rented a slip for the summer and the marina won’t allow me to bring in my own gasoline. How come? EM, East Rockaway NY.

A: Dear EM: There are many reasons why your marina will not permit you to bring gasoline in containers onto their premises. Leading the list are the very tough federal and local regulations.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) have enacted federal regulations (OPA 90, 4202: CZARA, P 5-55,D; CZARA, P 5-41,F; CZARA, P 5-53,C) that direct you, the boater, not to let oil or fuel get into our waters. And if it happens, you will be fined. You must report the spill and be ready to clean it up promptly and completely. If you don’t report the spill or clean it up, you could face additional fines and damage assessments totaling $20,000.00 or more.

Most local fire ordinances also have stringent regulations on the transportation of gasoline.

Pouring gasoline from containers into the boat can and often will permit gas to be spilled into the water. Owners of boats observed “causing a film or sheen upon, or discoloration of the surface of the water, will be subject to a penalty of not less than $5,000.00”. (40 CFR 110.1.11)

The potential hazards of transported gasoline spilling on marina property contaminates not only the land but also could set other boats in the marina on fire by careless splashing or by the wind carrying fumes to an open ignition source which may be present.

While it is true that gas prices are soaring, many boat owners may feel that they can save money by bringing in their own gasoline as marina prices are always higher than the street price. Marina prices tend to be higher for a few reasons.

Many marinas only pump one grade of gasoline due to limited storage facilities. Often they will select the highest grade of gasoline, 93 octane. This grade is preferred by major outboard manufacturers to prevent the build up of carbon on the piston rings in their two stroke engines. The higher octane rating provides more detergent properties than the lower octane ratings. It also has a higher price tag as well.

Because of the marina’s proximity to the water, only smaller fuel storage tanks are permitted. Marinas do not buy in volume like the gasoline stations on the street that have multiple large capacity fuel tanks. Thus the cost of gasoline the marinas buy is similar to the street prices the consumer pays. Pumping gasoline at a marina is customer courtesy rather than a moneymaking opportunity.

Some practices to follow save on gas consumption as well as protecting the environment. Here are a few:

When fueling, try not to top off your tanks. Overflow fuel from the gas vent can amount to a considerable quantity. The summer’s heat can also expand the volume of gasoline in the tank causing it to overflow. Shut off the pump nozzle before the tank reaches full capacity.

Purchase and use and overflow container. These devices use a suction cup to attach over the fuel tank vent to catch gas coming from the vent.

For I/O’s and inboards place an oil absorbent device under the engine. These are available in many forms, flat sheets, rolled and netted.

Change your bilge pump switch to a design that distinguishes between petroleum products and water. These will only pump water overboard, not oil or gas. They cost about the same as a typical float switch.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I recently had a problem with my lower unit of my outboard which will require a complete rebuild. Being somewhat mechanically inclined, I plan to do the repair myself. What will I need to do the job? VS, Baldwin NY

A: Dear VS: When rebuilding a lower unit, you are dealing with a number of moving components. Gears must be aligned properly so that their contact pattern is correct. This is accomplished by shimming, that is adding or subtracting thin spacers which adjust the location of the gears relative to the others. Some gearcases require an extensive complicated process to accomplish proper gear pattern adjustment.

You will need “special” tools to disassemble and reassemble the gearcase in addition to regular hand tools. These special tools are usually manufacturer specific, that is, they can only be used on the gearcase on which you are working. You must purchase these tools directly from an authorized dealer. A typical set of “special” tools for a gearcase can run up to $1,000. The unfortunate fact is that you probably will never use them again.

Because this is such a technical repair, you should also invest in the “official” manufacturer’s shop manual. These can be purchased from a local dealer and will cost about $45-75.

Once the gearcase has been disassembled, you will need to examine all of the parts to determine which will require replacement. Gearcase parts can also be purchased through the local dealer. A typical set of parts for the gearcase can cost $500-600 and may go higher if the gearcase is severely damaged.

If you have your local mechanic repair the lower unit, his labor will run about $300-400 for this type of repair. The cost of the parts will be the same as above. Doing the job yourself will cost about $800 more than having a professional do it.

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The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a state of the art navigation system that can pinpoint your position anywhere on the globe. GPS uses a constellation of 24 satellites in precise orbits approximately 11,000 miles above the earth. Data in the form of high frequency radio signals is transmitted from each satellite to the GPS receiver. This information is used to triangulate your position anywhere on earth.

The GPS receiver measures the travel time of the signals transmitted from the satellites it is sampling and multiplies them by the speed of light to determine exactly how far the receiver is from the satellite. A minimum of three satellite signals are required in order for the GPS receiver to calculate a 2 dimensional position fix, usually consisting of latitude and longitude. By obtaining a fourth satellite signal the GPS receiver can calculate altitude as well.

Most GPS receivers have 12 channels available to capture as many satellites as possible. By acquiring the signals from additional satellites the receiver can over resolve a solution which ensures reliable, continuous and uninterrupted navigation, even in adverse conditions.

The Department of Defense who originally conceived the system during the 1970’s has enhanced the overall accuracy of the GPS system. Accuracy, which is important to you, is now within 10 to 20 meters which means you can get back to your favorite fishing hole each and every time. Some GPS receivers now have enhanced capability as well. With the development of Differential GPS, which adds a land based reference receiver whose location is precisely known to the system. The non-moving DGPS reference station knows where the satellites are located in space at any given moment. The DGPS station calculates the error coming from the satellite and sends a correction signal to the GPS receiver, which further improves the accuracy of the entire system often within 3 meters or about 10 feet.

The first time a GPS receiver is turned on it will calculate its initial position. This may take a few minutes, as it must learn where it is, what the date is, and what the time is. This sequence allows the receiver to know which satellite is overhead, so that it can begin searching for them and to lock onto them. The receiver will achieve much faster lock-on the second and subsequent time the receiver is turned on.

Some less expensive GPS receivers show the position data as digital latitude and longitude information on a screen. Other GPS receivers have built in charts or chart modules covering your specific general location, and your exact position is displayed at the center of the chart. As you move, the chart moves with you always displaying your location at the center. GPS receivers can also provide location information to other devices such as autopilots to provide for steering control.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Lately we have been hearing warnings from the government about additional terrorist attacks. How safe will the waters around our area be this summer? JG, Brightwaters NY.

A: Dear JG: Since the tragic events of September 11th, 2001, the Coast Guard has increased their personnel by recalling many of the Coast Guard reservists to active duty. Communication and coordination among other agenciefs as well as local law enforcement has been strengthened to protect the waters around Long Island. Among these agencies interfacing with the Coast Guard are the Coast Guard Auxiliary, New York Air National Guard, New York State Police, Nassau and Suffolk County Police, local police, and the Bay Area Maritime Search and Rescue Squads.

This summer you will see an enhanced presence of Coast Guard patrols on the water. You will also see them patrolling public marinas as well. According to Lt. Michael Griffin, Command Intelligence Specialist of Coast Guard Group Moriches, the Coast Guard will be checking boats in situations that look out of place. They will require proper identification of both boats and persons aboard. Individuals should have picture identification with them at all times. Boat registration must be current.

You can help the Coast Guard by making sure that everything on your boat is in order. This will keep them from wasting time that can be better spent on security issues. Make sure that you have enough fuel to complete your trip. Be self-sufficient!

Look for indicators that are out of place. Look for the unusual. Be aware of what is not normal. Be observant. Do not hesitate to call the Coast Guard for anything that just doesn’t look right.

In addition to reporting anything peculiar, boaters are also asked to take the following precautions:

- Always secure and lock your boat
- Always take your keys with you
- When storing your boat, make sure it is secure and its engine is disabled. If it is on a trailer, then ensure the trailer is as im-moveable as possible.
- Do not stop or anchor beneath bridges or channels-- another patriotic soul may think you’re planting a bomb
- Observe and avoid all secure areas such as power plants and the southern tip of New York
- Do not venture into commercial port operation areas, especially those that involve military, cruise line, fuel, petroleum, hazardous materials and other inventories that may be subject to terrorist attacks
- Do not approach military, cruise line or commercial shipping. Keep your distance. There is a 100-yard security zone around military, cruise line and many commercial vessels.

If you would like to get more involved in homeland security, volunteer with your local Coast Guard Auxiliary.

Remember, Coast Guard assets are conducting the largest port security operation since WWII in support of Maritime Homeland Security.

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The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a state of the art navigation system that can pinpoint your position anywhere on the globe. GPS uses a constellation of 24 satellites in precise orbits approximately 11,000 miles above the earth. Data in the form of high frequency radio signals is transmitted from each satellite to the GPS receiver. This information is used to triangulate your position anywhere on earth.

The GPS receiver measures the travel time of the signals transmitted from the satellites it is sampling and multiplies them by the speed of light to determine exactly how far the receiver is from the satellite. A minimum of three satellite signals are required in order for the GPS receiver to calculate a 2 dimensional position fix, usually consisting of latitude and longitude. By obtaining a fourth satellite signal the GPS receiver can calculate altitude as well.

Most GPS receivers have 12 channels available to capture as many satellites as possible. By acquiring the signals from additional satellites the receiver can over resolve a solution which ensures reliable, continuous and uninterrupted navigation, even in adverse conditions.

The Department of Defense who originally conceived the system during the 1970’s has enhanced the overall accuracy of the GPS system. Accuracy, which is important to you, is now within 10 to 20 meters which means you can get back to your favorite fishing hole each and every time.

Some GPS receivers now have enhanced capability as well. With the development of Differential GPS, which adds a land based reference receiver whose location is precisely known to the system. The non-moving DGPS reference station knows where the satellites are located in space at any given moment. The DGPS station calculates the error coming from the satellite and sends a correction signal to the GPS receiver, which further improves the accuracy of the entire system often within 3 meters or about 10 feet.

The first time a GPS receiver is turned on it will calculate its initial position. This may take a few minutes, as it must learn where it is, what the date is, and what the time is. This sequence allows the receiver to know which satellite is overhead, so that it can begin searching for them and to lock onto them. The receiver will achieve much faster lock-on the second and subsequent time the receiver is turned on.

Some less expensive GPS receivers show the position data as digital latitude and longitude information on a screen. Other GPS receivers have built in charts or chart modules covering your specific general location, and your exact position is displayed at the center of the chart. As you move, the chart moves with you always displaying your location at the center. GPS receivers can also provide location information to other devices such as autopilots to provide for steering control.

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Did you ever try to start your motor after a great day of fishing only to find a dead battery? You probably have often thought about adding a second battery and questioned whether it was really needed.

A second battery provides an extra margin safety when used properly. Your engine automatically recharges the battery when it is running. If you have two battery system, the engine will only charge the battery that has been selected by the battery switch. By using a battery switch you can alternate the use of each battery so that you can always count on having two fully charged batteries.

A battery switch has four positions; battery one, battery two, both batteries, and off. The proper way to use a dual battery system is to alternate the use of battery one and two. When using the “both” position the batteries are connected together in parallel which give you twice as much starting current. There should be no reason to use the both position if you are alternating the use of battery one and two. The battery switch should be left in the off position when leaving the boat.

To add a dual battery system to your boat you will need the following parts: a marine starting battery, battery switch, one length of black battery cable, two lengths of red battery cable, battery box or tray, cable clamps and miscellaneous screws, nuts and bolts.

Unless a second battery will throw the boat out of balance, try to locate the second battery close to the original so that the wires can be kept as short as possible. Allow enough room to install the battery switch and battery box or tray close to the same location as the first battery. Make sure the battery switch is in an accessible place so that it is easy to operate.

Connect the new black wire between the negative terminals of each battery. You can leave the existing ground wires attached to the original battery. Remove the positive (red) wires from the first battery and connect them to the common terminal on the battery switch. Add one new red wire to each battery positive terminal, Connect the other end of one of the new red wires to terminal 1 and the end of the other to terminal 2 of the battery switch. Arrange the wires neatly around the batteries and to the battery switch. Use cable clamps to secure the wires to the bulkheads. Make sure the wire from the automatic float switch is connected directly to one of the battery positive terminals. This is important since you will turn the battery switch off when leaving the boat and you do not want to turn off the automatic feature of the bilge pump.

Your local dealer can supply all the necessary parts and expert advise to help in adding a second battery to your boat.

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One of the most useful aids to boating is a depth finder. From a simple in dash digital depth gauge to an advanced color fish finder, these instruments will add a margin of safety to your navigation by enabling you to see the depth of the water, bottom contours, and the location of schools of fish.

To select the best depth finder for your needs, determine which basic features you require from among the following: analog or digital depth readings only, depth readings with bottom contour, fish finding capabilities, surface water temperature, speed measurement, shallow or deep alarms, and gray or color screen. Additional advanced features are also available. Check with your local dealer to help you determine which features that you will need for your type of boating.

Depth reading only: Usually these types of depth finders fit directly into the dash instrument panel. They are good for boats with extensive instrumentation at the helm where depth readings are required.

Depth readings with bottom contour: These depth finders are slightly larger and do not fit into dash panels easily. Instead they mount on top or under the dash panel. The screen size is determined by the number of pixels or screen elements displayed. The more pixels the greater the definition and clearer the representation. As the boat moves through the water, the screen follows and displays the depth and a moveable picture of the bottom contours.

Fish finder: These depth finders display an on screen symbol when fish are present under the boat. Schools of fish can be identified easily. Some models will also display the depth at which the fish are located.

Speed and temperature: By the use of a transom mounted paddle wheel sensor, boat speed can be displayed on the depth finder screen. Temperature of the surface of the water can also be determined on these units as well. Temperature readings are important in fishing for certain type of fish.

Alarm functions: Shallow water alarms are useful when boating in unknown areas to alert the operator that the boat is heading into shallow water. Deep-water alarms can be used as anchor watches to alert the operator that the boat is drifting.

Color or gray: This refers to the presentation of the on screen data. For most applications, gray is ok, for more demanding professional applications, color will enhance details.

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A VHF radio will increase your ability to summon help on the water, allow you to monitor weather forecasts, as well as provide ship to ship communication. The US Coast Guard monitors channel 16 on your VHF radio and recommends all vessels have their radio on and tuned to this channel while underway.

Installing a VHF radio in your boat is a straightforward project. Check with your IMD dealer to select the radio that closely matches your intended use. He can provide expert guidance and explain the features and benefits of each radio.

You will also need the following parts to complete the installation; either a 3-foot whip antenna or a standard length VHF antenna; a plastic or chrome antenna mount; and miscellaneous stainless steel fasteners to mount the antenna and radio to the boat.

Find a suitable location to mount the radio. This should be close to the helm station for easy access but should not interfere with normal operator functions. Install the radio into the mounting bracket and hold it in the desired location making sure you have clearance around the radio. Drill 4 mounting holes for the radio bracket and use either self-tapping screws or thru bolt the bracket. Drill two holes for the microphone holder and install it with the screws provided. Drill another hole large enough to pass the power leads and antenna wire through.

Select the location to mount the antenna. It should be in a spot where the antenna wire can be routed to the radio easily. Make sure you can reach the back of the antenna mount, which you will have to thru bolt. Drill 4 holes using the antenna mount as a pattern. Install the antenna on the mount and thru bolt the mount to the boat. Drill a small hole near the base of the antenna and run the antenna wire thru it. Cover this hole with a small vent to make a neat appearance and keep water out of the hole. Run the power leads and antenna wire thru to the inside of the boat and to the radio. Mount the antenna connector using the instructions provided with the radio. Connect the antenna to the radio, and the power leads to a 12 DC power source.

To test the radio, tune to an active weather channel in your area. This will test your receiver. To test the transmit portion of the radio tune to a ship to ship calling channel in your area and ask for a radio check.

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One of the most important safety devices in your boat is the bilge pump. The bilge pump is responsible for pumping from the boat any water that may have accumulated due to rain or leaks. Because bilge pumps are located at the bottom of the bilge, they are often overlooked. When was the last time you checked yours?

The bilge pump is only one part of the complete system for eliminating water. The float switch, electrical components and water outlet hose are equally important. The float switch is an automatic device that activates the bilge pump as the level of water increases.

The best method for testing the pump system is to fill the bilge area with water from a garden hose or bucket. When the float switch reaches its “turn on” height the water should pump overboard. As the level of water goes down, the pump should turn off. While the pump is working, observe the outlet hose for cracks and leaks from the pump to the outlet fitting. Many times the outlet hose is split allowing some or all of the water to go back into the bilge. Replace the hose if there is any doubt.

If filling the area around the pump is impractical, simply lift the float switch and listen for the pump to operate. This will check the automatic feature of the pump system. If you have a bilge pump switch at the dash, turn the switch on and listen for the pump motor to activate or watch for water to exit the boat.

If your pump only operates when turning on the dash switch, not when the float switch is raised, you will need to determine if the float switch is bad. The wiring and fuse could also be defective. Locate the fuse connected between the float switch and the battery, and check to see if it is blown. Also, check the condition of the wires from the battery, fuse holder, and connections to the float switch. If the wiring is good, the float switch will need to be replaced. It is best to replace the float switch with the same model so that you do not have to drill new mounting holes. Follow the manufacturers wiring diagram to install the new float switch.

If lifting up on the float switch in the bilge or turning on the bilge pump at the dash does not make the pump run, and the wiring is in good condition, the pump will need to be replaced. Try to find the exact replacement to eliminate drilling more holes in the bottom of the boat. Follow the wiring diagram supplied with the pump. Make sure waterproof butt splice connectors and fuse holders are used to wire the bilge pump.

Remember to test your bilge pump system on a regular basis. Covering your boat with canvas can also prevent your bilge pump from working overtime and draining your battery. Your IMD dealer can supply all the necessary parts and expert advise to help in repairing your bilge pump.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: How should I prepare my boat in case we get a hurricane? AB, Valley Stream NY.

A: Dear AB: Hurricane season in the Northeast runs from June through the end of October. However, with the way the weather has been lately, damaging storms seem to occur even outside this window of time.

The best place for your boat to ride out a hurricane is on land. If your boat is small enough or you can place it on a trailer, it is to your advantage to get it out of the water and store it as far away from the water as possible. Remember to remove the hull plug so any rainwater can drain out and not accumulate in the boat. Secure the boat to the trailer with straps or lines.

If you must leave the boat in the water, try to find a hurricane safe anchorage where you can store the boat. Plan in advance for this contingency. To secure the boat, double up on all dock lines and leave enough slack for the anticipated storm surge. Place chafing gear wherever the lines contact the boat. If the boat will stay on a mooring put chafing gear on the anchor rode so that the line will not part where it contacts the boat. If you are leaving the boat in its slip, place all available fenders around the boat.

Whether the boat is on land or in the water, remove all canvas and sails and secure all equipment and accessories that could be damaged by the wind. Batten down the hatches and secure all windows.

While you can’t always predict how a hurricane will harm your boat, it is prudent to make sure your insurance policy is in effect and contains the proper coverage in the event of storm damage. Make sure that your insurance covers the cost of fuel or oil clean up and any environmental damage caused by that spill. Recovery of a sunken vessel can be very costly especially if special equipment, such as cranes or helicopters are involved. Make sure to read your insurance policy so you can update the coverage you will need before disaster strikes.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: I just purchased an outboard powered boat with power trim and tilt on the engine and electric/hydraulic trim tabs on the boat. What is the correct way to trim my boat using both systems? TH, Medford.

A: Dear TH: The term trimming your boat refers to the settings of both the power trim and tilt and the trim tabs to achieve the best possible performance and fuel economy of the boat.

The power trim and tilt (PTT) system on the motor adjusts for the best planing attitude of the hull. To correctly use this system you would bring the PTT control to the full down (tuck in) position when bringing the boat up on plane. This angle will provide the best performance out of the hole, and will help get the boat up on plane in the fastest time possible. Once the boat is on plane, depress the up trim button of the motor until the planning attitude of the hull is at its best angle. This is the spot where the boat rides the best and the engine is the most fuel-efficient. You will need to experiment where this position is for your rig. Once you are happy with the performance, make a mental note of the amount of tilt on the motor and return to this setting the next run.

The trim tabs will cause the boat to ride on a level plane port to starboard. If you have more weight on one side, adjust that trim tab until the boat rides even in the water. This is the proper adjustment for the trim tabs for the load carried on this outing. Different loads will require a different setting of the trim tabs.

Avoid using the trim tabs to force the bow too far down into the water. This could cause the boat to “bow steer”, that is, to steer the boat from the bow instead of from the motor. Bow steer is a dangerous condition that could cause the boat to be forced in an unwanted direction by the action of the waves, often very quickly and without warning.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My neighbor says I should get a set of hydrofoils for my boat. What will this do for me? Do I really need them? BW, Mastic NY.

A: Dear BW: Hydrofoils are shaped like airplane wings which are attached to the anti-cavitation plate directly above the propeller. They are usually made of plastic type materials although some are aluminum. They can be used on outboards or I/O’s of any horsepower.

The manufacturers claim that these fins will put the boat on plane quicker. Once on plane, the fins ride out of the water resulting in less drag and higher speeds.

In our experience, boats that have the correct horsepower do not need additional help in getting on plane. If your boat is underpowered, these hydrofoils will provide assistance in getting the boat up on plane faster.

To determine if your boat has adequate horsepower, multiply the maximum horsepower rating for the boat by 75%. If your boat exceeds this amount, it should not need additional help in getting on plane. If your horsepower is far less than 75%, you might consider adding hydrofoils.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: How efficient are “ear muffs” in cleaning the salt from my outboard engine?

EK: Bayside NY.

A: Dear EK: Ear muffs or flushette devices, if used properly, can be an aid in keeping salt and corrosion to a minimum inside your engine. They can also be used to clean away sediment such as sand, silt, mud or alkali. A lot of people think they should be used religiously every time they run their engine. Though earmuffs will flush out foreign materials, they will not get the inside of your engine spotless.

The “ears” of the flushette are placed over the water intake ports on the lower unit. Water is supplied via a garden hose attached to the flushette. Before starting the engine, make sure water is flowing to the flushette with no hindrance to the flow. The water pump in the lower unit will circulate the cooling water from the flushette throughout the engine. Never allow the engine to run above a fast idle speed as the water pump is so powerful, it will suck the hose flat shutting off the water flow. This will cause an overheat condition to occur and could cause serious damage to the engine. Remember, never leave the engine running on the flushette without constant supervision.

Most new outboard engines have a fresh water flushing port already built into them. They will allow you to connect your garden hose directly to the flushing port. The engine does not have to be run to force water throughout the cooling system. The flushing port has easy access allowing you to clean the engine even while in the water.

If you have a stern drive, you will still need the good old earmuffs to flush the engine and, unfortunately, this can only be done on land.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have been thinking about leaving my boat in the water for the entire winter. I would also like to leave in the floating dock as well. Do you think this is a good idea? How can I protect each against ice? FW, Inwood, NY

A: Dear FW: Leaving a boat in the water in our northern climate is a risky thing, although many people have successfully done so. You will want to protect the boat and the dock from being trapped in the ice. Of course, the thicker the ice the worst the problem will be.

A simple method to keep the boat and dock free from the grip of the ice is to break up the ice around the boat and dock each day. A simple ice pick will do the job. Just smash the ice through leaving a small patch of unfrozen water around each. You must make sure this is done each day. Don’t skip a day, because once ice is solid around the boat and dock it may be impossible to chip through.

A slightly more high tech method would be to install an ice eater type system. These are electric motors with small propellers that are submerged near the boat and dock. The direction of the propeller’s wash is aimed toward the area to be kept free of ice. Purchase a model that has a thermostat to turn on and off the unit when the temperature goes below 32 degrees. This feature shuts off the unit when there is no danger of freezing and turns it on when ice could form. The ice eater works by circulating warmer water from the bottom of the area around the objects to be protected. By keeping a constant flow of warm water ice does not have a chance to form.

Most ice eater systems are sold with different horsepower ratings. A three quarter horsepower model will keep an area clear of ice up to eighty feet from the unit. Ice eater units can be purchased through your local marine parts store at a cost of about $400-500.

Most importantly keep a close watch on your battery system on the boat so that the bilge pump can pump out any water that may accumulate from rain or snow.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: My gas gauge on the dash stopped working. How difficult will it be to find out what is wrong? GS, Huntington NY

A: Dear GS: Your gas tank indicator system consists of three major components, the in tank sender assembly, the wiring from the gas tank to the dash, and the gas gauge on the dash.

To quickly isolate the faulty component start with the gas tank sender assembly. This is done by locating the gas tank sender assembly that is situated on the top of the gas tank. Built in gas tanks are usually located under a floor access hatch. If you have a gas tank that is exposed, the sender will be on the top of the tank. Remove the pink wire from the center connector of the gas tank sender and with the ignition in the “on” position, ground the pink wire to the ground wire (black wire) located under a screw of the sender assembly. The gas gauge should go to the full reading. If this happens then you know the gas gauge and the wiring from the sender to the dash are in good condition. The faulty component will be the gas tank sender within the gas tank. Remove it and replace with a new unit.

If the gas gauge does not move while performing the above test, then the problem lies with the wiring or the gas gauge itself. To check the wiring use an ohmmeter to test for continuity. The pink wire should read zero ohms if it is good. Also check the black or ground wire which should also read zero ohms when using the ohmmeter. Replace any wires that fail the ohmmeter test.

To test the gauge, short the pink wire at the gauge to the ground wire behind the dash. The gauge should read full. If it does not, either the gauge is defective or it is not getting the 12vdc it requires to operate. Measure the voltage on the 12vdc terminal to ground to verify the gauge has power. If it does, then the gauge is defective. Locate the same brand gauge at your local marine supply store and install in the dash. Your gas gauge system should now work as it once did.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have a fishing style boat and have often wished I could clean the deck while underway. Last month you outlined a saltwater wash-down system which would be a welcome addition to my rig. Could you describe how to install such a system? HK, Deer Park NY.

A: Dear HK: A saltwater or raw water wash-down system pumps water from the ocean or the bay through a hole in the boat called a thru-hull fitting. A pump attached to the hose coming from the thru-hull fitting brings the water thru a hose and nozzle assembly to wash down the deck. It’s great for washing off sandy feet or fish guts.

Planning and installation of a salt water wash-down is more complex than other do-it-yourself projects, but with proper planning this project is within the skills of most boaters.

You will need to assemble the following parts.

A wash-down pump with an integral pressure cutoff switch and an output volume of at least 3 gallons per minute. The cutoff switch stops the pump from operating unless the pressure falls below a pre-set level.

An on-off toggle switch or push-pull switch for turning on or off the pump power.

Various lengths of 14 gauge wire, fuse holder, the proper sized fuse as specified by the instructions from the wash-down pump, miscellaneous electrical connectors such as butt splices, ring terminals, and heat shrink tubing.

A brass thru-hull fitting for use below the water line, and a brass ball valve to shut off water when the wash-down is not in use. This valve should be of the proper size to match the thru-hull fitting.

Various lengths of reinforced water hose to connect from the gate valve to the pump, and another length of hose to connect from the pump to the deck outlet, and various stainless steel band clamps to secure the hoses.

A deck outlet fitting for connecting the pump to a coiled wash-down hose, and a hose nozzle.

The boat must be out of the water to install the system. Locate a suitable position to install the thru-hull fitting as a water inlet. If you wish to use this system while the boat is underway, it will be necessary to locate the thru-hull on the bottom of the hull. You can mount the water inlet on the transom of the boat if you will only use the system when the boat is stationary. Remember that the transom is out of the water when the boat is underway. Drill the correct size hole to mount the thru-hull and bed with underwater silicone. Tighten the thru-hull nut. Thread the ball valve to the thru-hull fitting. Attach a length of water hose from the gate valve to the pump input and secure with stainless band clamps. The pump should be mounted high enough in the bilge to avoid being submerged in normal levels of bilge water. Mount the pump to a bulkhead wall using the four mounting holes provided. Find a convenient location for the deck outlet fitting and drill the mounting hole. Attach another length of water hose from the pump outlet to the deck outlet fitting and secure with stainless steel band clamps. Screw the coiled water hose assembly to the deck outlet fitting. If you find it convenient to locate the pump power switch at the rear of the boat, find a suitable location for the switch. Connect a black wire to one of the pump wires and route to the battery negative terminal of your battery system. Connect a red wire to the other pump wire and connect to one side of the power switch. Attach another red wire to the remaining terminal of the power switch and route towards your battery system. Connect the fuse assembly between the power switch and the positive terminal of your battery system or connect to the common terminal of your dual battery switch.

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Want some fine tunes while fishing, cruising, or just hanging around? Why not install a new CD player in the boat? Visit your local dealer to select the best stereo to fit you budget. Installation is easy. Here’s how:

Locate the stereo in the dash where access is easy from both sides and where it won’t interfere with other instruments or gauges. Each stereo comes with a template to cut the proper clearance hole. You will need a jigsaw with a fine blade for cutting fiberglass. Mark the template outline on the dash. Drill ¼” inch holes at the corners of the cutout and start the jig saw in one of the holes. After the cutout is made, dry fit the stereo to check the installation. Install the speakers in the same manner as above. The stereo will sound the best when the speakers are far apart, so try to locate them on the port and starboard sides of the boat. If your boat is larger or if you have a cabin, four speakers will be better than two. Always make sure you can access the speaker easily.

Install the stereo and connect the power leads to a 12V source behind the dash. Run the speaker wire, supplied with the speakers, from the speakers to the stereo. Connect the speaker wires to the stereo as indicated by the instructions supplied with the stereo. Purchase a small dipole antenna from your IMD dealer and connect to the stereo. The dipole antenna can be left behind the dash and still receive good AM and FM radio signals.

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If you have a dual battery system in your boat, you may have noticed that only the battery selected by the battery switch is being charged while the engine is running. Turning the battery switch to “both” connects the two batteries together. This could be a problem if one of the batteries is low or completely dead, as the dead battery will draw a charge from the charged battery and may drain the charged battery so that the motor cannot be started. To make sure that both batteries are fully charged, install a low cost battery isolator.

A battery isolator allows each battery in the boat to receive a full charge even if it is not the battery being selected by the battery switch. This means you will never be suprized with a dead battery.

To select the proper battery isolator, check with your local dealer so that he can advise you of the proper model for your application.

Mount the battery isolator, which is about half the size of a normal battery, in a dry area somewhat close to the battery bank. Attach the battery isolator to an inside wall of the boat with self-tapping screws, or if you can reach behind the panel, you can thru bolt the unit. Connect two 10 gauge wires from the battery isolator to each positive battery terminal.

If you have an outboard, the alternator wire must be removed from the positive battery connection at the motor end. Check your motor’s wiring diagram to do this properly. Run a new 10-gauge wire from the alternator output wire of the engine to the battery isolator input terminal. Consult you engine wiring diagram for the proper connections if you have an I/O or inboard engine.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Last month you talked about float plans. What are they and what should be included in them? WW, Oceanside NY

A: Dear WW: Both commercial and recreational pilots file flights plans prior to each flight. The flight plan coupled with almost constant communication with ground controllers insures a safe flight. A float plan is similar device for boaters. We encourage all boaters to file a float plan before going boating. Leave the float plan with a reliable person who can be depended upon to notify the Coast Guard or other rescue organizations should you not return as scheduled.

The following is a suggested float plan compliments of Sea Tow International.

Name of person reporting and phone number

Description of boat, type, color, trim, registration number, length, name of vessel, make and other distinguishing information.

Number of persons on board with names, ages, addresses and telephone numbers.

Engine type and horsepower, number of engines and fuel capacity.

A list of survival equipment on board such as Pfd’s, flares, signal mirror, smoke signals, flashlight, food, anchor, raft or dinghy and EPIRB.

Is there a VHF or amateur radio on board? List frequencies.

What is the trip’s destination? When you expect to leave, day and time, from what location, and when you expect to arrive, or are expected to return to your homeport, and in any event what is the latest time you will return.

Other pertinent information that will aid in rescuers to find and identify you.

Your automobile license and type of vehicle color and make. The type of trailer and license number. Where is it parked?

And a time at which if you are not heard from, the telephone numbers of the local Coast Guard, police or marine bureau who may be called upon to aid in rescue.

ADDRESS YOUR QUESTIONS TO:
BOAT TALK
Moriches Boat & Motor
PO Box 658 Atlantic Avenue
East Moriches NY 11940

A free subscription to Long Island Boating World will be awarded for each question used.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My family and I plan to take a trip to Martha’s Vineyard this summer. What preparations should I make to add an extra margin of safety? FH, Lindenhurst NY.

A: Dear FH: Before you take any trip on your boat you should have a pre-departure check list such as the following to aid you in making sure that you have a safe and happy trip.

You must have a least one Coast Guard approved lifejacket per passenger as well a throwable flotation device (cushion or throw ring). Make sure you explain where each is located and how to use them to all passengers and crew.

Your boat must be equipped with a horn capable of producing a four second blast audible for at least one half mile. A backup portable air horn can be used as an alternate device. Be sure to have a spare can of air as a precaution.

Make sure all your navigation as well as your instrument lights are working. Bring along a flashlight as well.

Make sure you have accessible flares and day signals stored in a dry location. Make sure your crew and passengers are aware of their location and use.

A basic toolbox on board is a must. Along with the toolbox should be a quantity of spare parts, including light bulbs, fuel filters, engine parts, and thru hull plugs.

Make sure that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure. If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting. If the odors persist check out the source of the leak. Make sure you have accessible fire extinguishers and that the passengers and crew know their locations. Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.

Make sure your tanks are topped off or that you have enough fuel to provide a reasonable margin of safety for your return. Check the engine oil and coolant level.

Make sure the bilge’s are reasonability clean and dry and that bilge pumps are not running excessively.

Check battery connections to make sure they are clean and tight. The batteries should be fully charged. There should be enough battery power to run your whole vessel. If not, bring along spare batteries for electronic equipment needs. Make sure you have fully charged batteries for your handheld VHF radios.

Check the local weather conditions for the areas in which you plan to cruise. Keep a radio on board to receive weather updates.

Have at least one anchor system connected to your anchor line. Keep extra dock lines and at least two fenders in case of unusual conditions dockside. Make sure all lines are free of chafe and wear.

Have the ships papers and fishing permits available for inspection. Have charts for the areas you intend to cruise. Make sure to leave a float plan with a close friend, relative of dockmaster at your marina. Be sure to contact them when you have reached your destination and also when you leave.

Have a safe and wonderful trip!

ADDRESS YOUR QUESTIONS TO
BOAT TALK
C/O Moriches Boat & Motor
PO Box 658 Atlantic Avenue
East Moriches NY 11940

A free subscription to Long Island Boating World will be awarded for each question used.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am in the process of buying a new boat, somewhere between 20 to 23 feet. This will be my first boat. I know the boat comes with the required Coast Guard and Mooring packages. What additional equipment do you suggest? FT, Queens, NY.

A: Dear FT: Welcome to the wonderful world of boating. Boating will be a very relaxing and enjoyable sport especially if you have the right equipment on board to aid you. Here is a list starting with the most basic which we feel every boater should have. Remember that this equipment, although not required by law, is very essential for safe boating.

Compass: This is your basic sense of direction. Since there are no street signs on the water, the compass will assist you, along with your charts, in going to or coming from your destination. Most compasses are illuminated, (expect for the smallest dashboard variety) and should be connected to your navigation lights for night time viewing.

Charts: As mentioned above, charts are the street maps of the sea. Navigation charts contain a wealth of information such as water depth, compass headings, location of buoys, channels, and prominent features on land such as radio tower, water towers and inlets. If you don’t know how to read a chart, take a boating course in the off season. The Coast Guard recommends you file a float plan with someone ashore who will notify the proper authorities should you be overdue.

Water separating fuel filter: This valuable filter traps water along with any debris before it can go from your gas tank into your engine. Water can occur in the fuel from condensation or by simply forgetting to secure the gas cap.

Gauges: A basic set of gauges should include; fuel, tachometer, temperature, voltmeter, speedometer, and hour meter. For outboard powered boats, the most important gauge one should have is a water pressure gauge. This gauge measures the pressure of cooling water circulation through the engine. It is an early warning indicator of a potential serious overheat condition. If you should pick up eel grass, a plastic bag, or have kissed a sand bar, this gauge will show no water pressure coming trough before the engine starts to overheat.

Depth Finder: This electronic marvel works with sonar technology to indicate the depth of water while you are underway. It is a real necessity when you are in shallow or unfamiliar waters. Some units have additional fish finder capability which displays fish swimming below your boat. A really good fish finder displays and “H” next to the fish symbol to indicate if that fish is hungry! Of course these units are very hard to find.

VHF radio: This is your communication device on the water. It is used by boaters to talk from boat to boat. The Coast Guard monitors channel 16 for emergency situations and recommends every boater keep it turned on and tuned to channel 16 while underway. You can also get current weather forecasts and updated boating information.

Canvas: Canvas should be used for two primary purposes; the first for shade, and the second to keep water out of the boat and off of sensitive instruments and electronics.

Dual Battery: A second battery is like insurance especially if you plan to go offshore. You may never use it, but is nice to know it is there. If you have a full complement of electronics, it is a definite necessity!

Kickers: A kicker is a small outboard motor which is used to propel the boat in the event the primary engine fails. It can also be used for trolling. Once again, it’s like having insurance.

Anchor Windlass: For those of you who can’t count on their spouse to throw out that anchor, and anchor windlass will make your anchoring chores easier. The anchor windlass is an electric motor that automatically lowers and raises the anchor from the cockpit. On larger boats, it is especially useful.

Trailer Winch: If you are planning to trailer your boat, a power trailer winch is another must have item. It is an electric motor with a cable that hooks on to the bow eye of the boat and pulls the boat from the water onto the trailer. It eliminated all the manual cranking and cussin’ after a long day on the water.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My father who is 78 years old complains about getting several things up, one of them is his 9.9 HP kicker motor. Is there any advise that you can give to help him out? PP, Manorville NY.

A: Dear PP: Unfortunately there is no little blue pill we could give to his outboard motor, but there are a number of ways that may lessen the load and make it easier to wrestle that motor up.

One solution is a rather simple outboard bracket, whose design includes a large spring. The spring takes most of the weight of the outboard motor when pulling the motor out of the water. These brackets are rated by weight to hold the typical horsepower weight ranges of kicker motors. Kicker motors are small secondary motors usually up to 25 to 30 horsepower used as insurance motors to get the boat back to port when the primary engine fails.

Choose the appropriate model bracket for the horsepower and weight of the outboard motor. Outboard brackets are generally mounted to the transom of the boat on the port or starboard side of the main motor. These brackets are thru bolted with large washer or backing plates to spread the load over the transom area.

To lower the outboard, release the control lever and gently push the outboard down until the lower unit is submerged. To raise the outboard, grasp the control lever, and with a slight pull upward, the outboard will return to its raised position.

Another style of outboard bracket uses a hydraulic piston instead a spring. The function and ease of raising and lowering the kicker outboard is about the same as the spring type. The operation is the same as the spring type bracket.

Kicker outboard brackets cost between $140-$300 for the types mentioned above. Installation can be complicated. If you are wary, consult a marine service professional.

For the ultimate solution to raise and lower the kicker outboard, you may want to consider installing a power tilt bracket. These are units that use a hydraulic piston, electric motor, and control system to raise and lower the motor. Operation is simple-- just press the toggle switch up and the kicker outboard tilts out of the water.

Installation is somewhat more complicated than the mechanical bracket due to the wiring of the control circuit between the tilt switch and battery. Additional brackets may be required to increase the setback of the power tilt bracket so that the outboard clears the transom of the boat in the raised position. Mounting of the power tilt bracket to the transom is the same as the spring type. The cost of the power tilt unit will be about 3-4 times that of a simple mechanical bracket.

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Last month, we ran a trouble-shooting quiz to see how much you really know about stern drives. This month the outboard wizards get to belly up to the bar and test their troubleshooting knowledge with the following questions. Let’s see how you do.

1) A 1994 V-4 Evinrude spits and stalls at idle. The thermostats have been replaced, and all the carburetors have been rebuilt and adjusted twice. Engine cylinder head temperature reads 128 degrees. There is still no resolution to this problem. What else could be wrong?

A) A spit at idle is a lean condition that could be caused by a crankcase leak
B) Replace all the carburetors with new
C) Rejet the offending carburetor to richen up the mixture
D) Add additional oil to the gas mixture

2) Your boat has a full complement of gauges including a tachometer. Upon start up, the tachometer zeroes out but will not record the proper RPM. What could cause this problem?

A) +12V power lead going to the tach has come loose
B) Tachometer gauge is bad
C) Rectifier/Regulator is bad
D) All of the above

3) Your 70HP 3 cylinder Johnson spits at idle. A measurement of the cylinder head temperature indicates 80 degrees with water temperature of 55 degrees. The most likely cause is:

A) 80 degree cylinder head temperature is normal for this water temperature
B) A lower heat range spark plug has been installed, change to the proper heat range
C) The thermostat is stuck open or has been removed
D) The thermostat is stuck in the closed position

4) A friend has a V-6 engine that needs repair. It is hard to start and runs rough at all speeds. You have taken out the spark plugs and a few of them are salt water fouled indicating water within the cylinders. Which is the most logical sequence of repairs?

A) Change the cylinder head gasket, exhaust plate gasket, and then the powerhead base gasket
B) Change the exhaust plate gasket, powerhead base gasket
C) Change the cylinder head gasket, check the cylinder head for distortion, exhaust plate and then the powerhead base gaskets
D) Condemn the engine, it has a cracked block

5) Your friend has been troubleshooting his motor for a few days. The compression is equal and the spark is good on all cylinders. The engine is getting plenty of fuel. The battery is turning over the engine at the correct RPM. Yet, the engine will not start. What could be wrong?

A) The engine safety lanyard is not attached
B) The choke solenoid is defective
C) The flywheel key is sheared
D) The black/yellow wire to the CDI box is shorted to ground

6) Each time the ignition switch is turned to the start position, the main wire harness fuse blows. The main wire harness has been checked and is okay. Why is the fuse blowing?

A) The fuse is undersized, install a larger fuse
B) The starter solenoid coil winding is shorted
C) Starter motor is partially shorted and is drawing excessive current
D) The fuse holder terminal ends are corroded

7) An Evinrude175HP V-6 only reaches 5,000 RPM. The factory spec is 5,600. Changing the prop to a lower pitch has no effect on top end RPM. Compression is okay and all cylinders have good spark. Where should you look now?

A) Check the spark plugs, one or more may be fouled
B) Check the fuel supply, it may be restricted.
C) Check maximum spark advance adjustment
D) Check the boat for an overweight condition

8) After 3 fishing trips, the battery in your trailered boat goes dead. Why?

A) The battery will not hold a charge
B) The rectifier/regulator is defective
C) There is a small leak in the boat causing the bilge pump to work more than normal
D) The battery terminal ends need to be cleaned

9) A1989 88HP SPL Johnson starts fine and runs good when cold. After warm up, applying throttle causes the engine to stall. The fuel supply system is in good condition. What is the most likely cause?

A) Carburetor float is set to high
B) The VRO low oil level switch is defective
C) The fuel primer bulb is defective
D) The fuel pump diaphragm is weak

10) Your 1994 175HP Mercury has given you many years of dependable service. The boat always came up on plane at 3,200 RPM. Lately however, you must be at 4,000 RPM to get on plane. Compression, ignition and fuel are okay. Why?

A) Someone changed the prop with out you knowing it
B) You have started fishing with “Big Billy”
C) The tachometer is giving you the wrong reading
D) You used to boat in a lake, now you are in salt water which is heavier

11) When you leave the boat at the marina you always tilt the motor to the up position, but never put on the tilt lock lever. After a week the motor is in the down position. What would you do to solve this problem?

A) Use the tilt lock lever
B) Change the tilt switch mounted on the motor
C) Drain and refill the trim/tilt resoviour, metal particles are stuck in the up lock valve
D) Bring it to the dealer and let him solve the problem

12) A 225HP Johnson is hard to shift. The control box, shift cables and lower unit are within factory specifications. What else could be wrong?

A) Weak upper and lower motor mounts are allowing the lower unit to bind on the shift shaft
B) The shift interrupt switch is defective
C) The idle is set to high
D) Lubricate the shift cable

13) A V-6 engine starts okay and performs well for the first 3 minutes of medium speed operation. At that time the engine speed drops 400 RPM. This trouble will happen every time the motor is used. Why?

A) The gas filter is clogged
B) A stator winding is failing when warm
C) A CDI unit is failing when warm
D) An ignition coil is failing when warm

14) A V-6 engine runs poorly at medium to high speeds. Removing the air baffle reveals fuel being spit out of one of the carburetors. Why?

A) A reed valve is bent or broken
B) The piston must be bad because it is not producing enough vacuum
C) The carburetor base gasket is leaking
D) The fuel pump is supplying too much fuel

15) An OMC V-6 with an optical ignition system sounds the overheat warning buzzer. Temperature checks at the cylinder head indicate normal operation. What could be wrong?

A) Dirt and debris are clogging one cylinder head
B) One or both temperature switches are defective
C) The warning buzzer circuit in the control box is defective
D) The tan wire in the main wiring harness is shorted

16) You have just completed changing the water pump. Upon testing the engine on the boat, the steering pulls to one side. What have you done to cause this problem?

A) Nothing, changing the water pump could not effect steering
B) Torque tab was not installed correctly
C) Torque tab was not tightened down
D) Torque tab was not installed

17) After changing the water pump on a V-6 Johnson, the unit does not shift correctly and clunks when going into gear. Why?

A) The shift rod and shift linkage are not connected
B) Change to a heavy weight gear oil to eliminate the noise
C) The shift rod was loose so you tightened it
D) The new water pump impeller is putting an additional strain on the gear case

18) A 225HP Mariner with EFI has an ignition problem. At idle, the timing fluctuates about 2 degrees. What could be wrong?

A) Crank Position sensor is not properly set
B) Loose or poor ground connections
C) Defective engine temperature sensor
D) It is normal for timing to change on this model

19) A 200HP Yamaha surges upon acceleration. What would be the best way to test for the cause of this condition?

A) Connect a pressure gauge between fuel pump and carburetors
B) Connect a vacuum gauge between the fuel filter and motor
C) Operate the motor with a known good gas tank
D) Replace the fuel filter

20) A 225HP EFI Mercury is hard to start when cold. Why?

A) The ECU is not advancing the timing for cold start
B) Defective temperature switch
C) Defective enrichment valve
D) All of the above

21) A motor with a PTT system runs but the trim system does not move up or down. Which one of the following would not cause this problem?

A) Low oil level
B) Pump assembly faulty
C) Manual release valve leaking or not fully closed
D) Tilt ram piston leaking

22) When rebuilding a gearcase, which of the following operations should be performed?

A) All bearings should be cleaned and inspected
B) All defective bearings and races should be changed as a set
C) All seals should be changed regardless of condition
D) All of the above

23) A gearcase was extremely hard to remove. The problem was a rusted drive shaft spline. The rusted spline was cleaned and greased. The gearcase will not seat properly during installation. Why?

A) Grease is trapped in the clearance area between the driveshaft spline and crankshaft
B) The crankshaft still has rust on it
C) Because it was so hard to remove, the drive shaft elongated
D) The driveshaft is not entering the crankshaft, rotate the driveshaft and reinstall

24) Which of the following are not normally found on an EFI 4-stroke motor?

A) Intake air control valve
B) Intake air temperature sender
C) Manifold absolute pressure sensor
D) Oxygen sensor

25) In a four stroke engine, what part of the camshaft operation is very similar to the loop scavenge method of a 2-stroke engine?

A) Cam lobe duration
B) Cam lift
C) Overlap
D) Opening and closing ramp design

Answers:
1) A- Never rejet a carburetor unless it is for use at higher altitudes
2) C
3) C- A open or missing thermostat causes low cylinder head temperature therefore the engine cannot operate at the proper temperature
4) C
5) C- A sheared flywheel key will allow spark, but it will not occur at the proper time
6) B- The main harness fuse is used to make sure defective components do not overload and burn the wire harness
7) B
8) B
9) D
10) C
11) C- Often the only repair is to replace the complete pump assembly
12) A
13) D
14) A
15) B
16) B- Tech Tip- before removing the torque tab, mark its location with a felt tip marker. Align the mark during installation.
17) C
18) D
19) C- By eliminating the fuel supply as a cause of this problem it can be determined if the engine is at fault or the fuel supply
20) D- All the listed parts assist in starting a cold engine
21) D
22) D
23) A
24) D- Typically the oxygen sensor is only used during testing
25) C

Scoring:
20-25 Either you’re an expert or were peeking at the answers
15-19 Very decent troubleshooting skills
8-14 Keep reading that shop manual
0-7 Let professionals work on your engine

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have a 1963 Lapstrake Day cruiser. It was given to me by it’s original owner. I have been told it could be a collector’s item due to its age. The factory in Japan that built it had burned down. Where do I go to find out what its’ worth, if anything? I would like to sell it. CL, Lindenhurst NY

A: Dear CL: Our local search could not find any information about the manufacturer or the value of the boat. A good source to check out at your local library is Wooden Boat Magazine, which may list collectors and/or historical associations whose members may be of help to you. When writing to these groups include as much information as possible including construction materials, unusual features, or other miscellaneous data such as old addresses of the manufacturer.

If any of our readers have information about this boat please contact Boat Talk and we will be happy to pass it along.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: This year I bought a new four stroke outboard engine. How do I protect the engine against freezing during the winter lay-up season? My marina always put antifreeze into the block of my I/O four stroke engine. Should that be done to my outboard? PA, Greenlawn NY

A: Dear PA: The four stroke inboard/outboard engine is installed in your boat in such a manner that the cooling water can not completely drain out when the engine is not operating. When winterizing the engine, the mechanic removes the engine and manifold drain screws to drain the block of water and replaces it with antifreeze to protect the block from freeze damage.

Your four stroke outboard block is able to self-drain each time the motor has been run. Since there is no water within the block you do not have to worry about freeze damage. When storing the motor for the winter, keep the motor in the vertical position so that water will not get trapped. The same holds true with the two-stroke engine.

Antifreeze should also be added to the fresh water systems in your boat. In most applications raw water washdown systems are usually just drained.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: The new boat I have been looking at is offered in outboard and I/O versions. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? JZ, Hicksville NY

A: Dear JZ: The outboard engine is a self-contained unit mounted on the transom of your boat. Because of it’s easy installation and removal it is often preferred by boaters who wish to keep the hull but repower using the latest technology.

Outboard motors can be found in an assortment of styles. While there are still many carburetor two stroke motors available, the new technology (because of EPA legislation) is moving toward electronic fuel injected motors and four stroke engines.

I/O engines have always been four stroke engines. Within the last few years, they have become available with electronic fuel injection.

Because I/O engines are an integral part of the boat they will usually take up more cockpit space than the outboard. Cosmetically they are out of sight and enclosed in an acoustically padded engine box which reduces the operating sounds.

Initially the I/O’s are less expensive than outboards. However the cost of repowering may be higher due to additional labor costs required when installing a different horsepower engine.

Routine maintenance is generally less expensive for the outboard motor than the I/O. This is because there are more tune-up parts required for the I/O. If a large horsepower I/O engine is shoe-horned into a boat, gaining access to perform routine maintenance may be difficult and more costly as well.

If you are shopping late in the season and don’t want to wait for your boat to be manufactured, an outboard style boat can be powered with any brand of motor you prefer. Your choice with the I/O will be limited to whatever the dealer has in stock.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Please explain the different types of life vests and where they are required. GH, Merrick NY.

A: Dear GH: The Coast Guard sets minimum safety standard for recreational boats and associated safety equipment. To meet these standards some of the equipment must be Coast Guard approved. “Coast Guard Approved Equipment” meets Coast Guard specifications and regulations relating to performance, construction or materials.

All recreational boats must carry one wearable PFD (Type I, II, III, or V). Any boat sixteen feet or longer (except canoes and kayaks) must also carry one throwable PFD (Type IV).

Personal flotation devices (PFD) must be Coast Guard approved, in good and serviceable condition and the appropriate size for the intended user. Wearable PFD’s must be readily accessible. You must be able to put them on in a reasonable of time in an emergency. They should not be stowed in plastic bags, in locked or closed compartments, or have other gear stowed on top of them.

There are five types of PFD’s:

A Type I PFD or offshore life jacket provides the most buoyancy. It is effective for all waters, especially open, rough or remote waters where rescue may be delayed. It is designed to turn most unconscious wearers in the water to a face up position.

A Type II PFD or a near-shore buoyancy vest is intended for calm in land water, or where there is a good chance of quick rescue. Inherent buoyant PFD’s of this type will turn some unconscious wearers to a face up position in the water, but the turning is not as pronounced as a Type I PFD.

A Type III PFD or floation aid is good for conscious users in calm, inland water, or where there is a good chance of quick rescue. It is designed so wearers can place themselves in a face up position in the water. The wearer may have to tilt their head back to avoid turning face down in the water. The Type III foam vest has the same minimum buoyancy as the Type II PFD and is generally the most comfortable type for continuous wear.

A Type IV PFD or throwable device is intended for calm inland water with heavy boat traffic, where help is always present. It is designed to be thrown to a person in the water and grasped and held by the user until rescued. It is not designed to be worn, Type IV devices include buoyant cushions, ring buoys and horseshoe buoys.

A Type V PFD or special use device in intended for specific activities and may be carried instead of another PFD only if used according to the approval conditions on its label. A Type V PFD provides performance of either a Type I, II, or III PFD. Some Type V devices provide significant hypothermia protection.

New York State requires every pleasure vessel to carry at least one Coast Guard approved Type I, II, or III PFD for each person on board. All PFD’s on board your vessel must be:

Serviceable- free of rot, tears, punctures, water logging and straps functional
Readily accessible- quickly reachable in an emergency situation, never kept in plastic bags or under lock and key
Appropriate size for the intended wearer- check the US Coast Guard approval label for information on the intended user for a particular PFD.

In New York, children under the age of twelve must wear a Type I, II or III on board a vessel unless they are in a fully enclosed cabin. Child PFD approvals are based upon the child’s weight. Check the “user weight” on the label. They can be marked less than 30, 30 to 50, or 50 to 90 pounds.

The Coast Guard recommends and many states require wearing PFD’s for:

Water skiing or other towed activities
While operating personal watercraft
During white water boating activities
While sail boarding

Remember that PFD’s will keep you from sinking, but not necessarily from drowning. The best PFD is the one you wear.

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Dear Boat Talk: This is my first boat that has a pump out porta potti. Can you give me some clues on the proper operation and maintenance of this type system? JM, West Babylon NY.

Dear JM: Of the various sanitation systems found in cruising boats yours is a combination of the very simple porta potti and the holding tank systems.

A porta potti is the most common type head found in boats today. They consist of two chambers, an upper tank that you fill with holding tank deodorant and water. When the potti is used, a flush valve allows the waste to enter the lower chamber where it is stored. When the holding tank is full the two halves of the potti are disconnected and the holding tank portion is emptied, usually into the household septic system. The two halves are joined after the upper half is filled with a new solution of deodorant and water. A system of this type will usually be sufficient to last the average boating family about two days of use.

A porta potti in combination with a larger holding tank located somewhere in the hull will enable longer use before the tank must be emptied. Depending upon the size of the holding tank and the amount of use, it may take a few weeks of weekend use before waste removal is required. Because this type of system cannot be easily removed from the boat, you must go to a convenient location that has pump out equipment to remove the waste.

Holding tanks can be under a significant amount of pressure. Once the tank is full, opening the deck plate to begin the pump out process can bring new meaning to the term s—t faced.

Twenty-five years ago before pump out stations were required, a friend of ours had a system consisting of two big “honey buckets”, a manual pump, and hoses, that he used to extract the waste from the holding tank. At the end of his boating weekend he would empty the holding tank, into the “honey buckets” and dispose of the waste at home.

One weekend he entertained a few families with small children. The children’s experience with the potti was like a new game. Unbeknownst to the boat owner, the holding tank was filling fast. The pressure in the tank was at an all time high causing seepage from the deck fitting.

Our friend went up on deck to pump out the holding tank. As he loosened the deck plate, a geyser that would put Old Faithful to shame rushed forth throwing the contents of the holding tank far into the evening sky creating a shower that covered three other boats in every direction!

Holding tanks should always be emptied for winter storage.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have a small outboard motor I only occasionally during the winter on my duck boat. Recently the carburetor needed cleaning Is there any thing I could do to avoid having the carburetor cleaned every year? CM , Holtsville NY.

A: Dear CM: The first question you should ask yourself is how long you allow the gasoline to stay in the carburetor. Gasoline left in the carburetor will turn to varnish and clog the small internal passages.

If the gasoline sits for longer than one week you might want to drain the carburetor or run the engine until the carburetor is empty of fuel. Disconnecting the fuel supply to the motor assuming you have a motor that is not oil injected can do this. Some small outboards do have oil injection systems. If your motor is oil injected, your only alternative is to stop the motor normally, which will allow fuel to remain in the carburetor.

At the end of your season the motor should be fogged prior to storage. Fogging the engine is simply adding an excess amount of fogging oil that will coat the internal parts protecting against rust and corrosion.

As a precaution during the season, you should treat the fuel tank with a good gasoline stabilizer to minimize the deterioration of the fuel. Whatever fuel is left at the end of duck season should be disposed of in the proper manner. Next season you should fill the gas tank with fresh fuel and oil and don’t forget the stabilizer!

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: While getting my boat ready for spring, I noticed the propeller has a number of rough edges. Is there any way to fix this or must I purchase a new propeller? KH, Amityville, NY.

A: Dear KH: Small nicks and rough edges on the blade of your propeller can be repaired by having the propeller reconditioned. This is usually an economical repair as the cost is generally one-third the price of a new propeller.

Reconditioning a propeller is the term used for the process of straightening and re-pitching the blades to its original specifications. Welding similar materials to the blades can repair larger chunks missing from the blades.

You can take your propeller to your local marine dealer and he can have it reconditioned or check the telephone listings in the yellow pages under Propeller Reconditioning.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I retired this year and would like to purchase a trailer for my boat. I plan to travel to Florida this winter. Next year I plan to bring the boat to some fresh water lakes in the northeast. What should I look for when buying a trailer? JJ, Mastic Beach NY.

A: Dear JJ: One of the major factors in determining what type of trailer you will need is the weight and size of your boat. To determine the weight capacity for the trailer, you must add the weight of the boat and motor, the weight of the fuel (fuel capacity in gallons multiplied by 6), the weight of the extra gear on board plus any added accessories such as T-Tops, anchor windless, etc. Add a small fudge factor of about 100 pounds. This total weight calculation should be rounded up to the next highest standard weight rating of the brand of trailer you have selected. For example, if your total weight calculation is 2400 pounds, and the trailer manufacturer only makes a 2300 or 2800 pound model, you should go with the larger weight capacity trailer.

Bunk or roller trailer? Bunk trailers are float on type trailers. This means the trailer must be fully submerged so that the boat can be floated on to the bunks, which are straight carpeted surfaces. These trailers are great for lakes and those places where tide variations are small, or for smaller lighter boats under 16 feet. Roller trailers have multiple rubber rollers that make launching and retrieving less difficult as the boat rolls onto the trailer rather than sliding as with bunks. A line from the winch is attached to the bow of the boat to pull the boat over the rollers onto the trailer. Because the rollers are on arms that flop back and forth the roller trailer will generally center and align the boat upon the trailer.

Painted or galvanized? A galvanized trailer is treated to prevent or reduce corrosion caused by immersion in salt water. A painted trailer uses paint for its protection. Once a small scratch appears in a painted trailer, salt water will eat away at the metal parts rapidly. Painted trailers should only be used in fresh water applications.

Brakes or no brakes? New York State law requires that trailers over 3000 pounds capacity be equipped with brakes. For those of you with fewer than 3000 pound capacity trailers, brakes can be added. Brakes make the load easier to stop, especially if you have a large boat and a smaller tow vehicle.

Quality and sizing. Look for a trailer constructed of heavy gauge materials, which will last longer and support the boat without distorting the hull. Sizing the boat to the trailer should be done by the trailer dealer. This process insures the rollers conform to the boat bottom, and that the load is adjusted to place the proper amount of weight on the tongue. Proper tongue weight is important so that the load travels straight and true down the road.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have just been given a boat that has been in storage for 4 years. It has an I/O engine and outdrive. The overall condition of the boat is good at least from appearances. Is there some procedure I need to follow to get the boat operating again? DN, Hicksville, NY.

A: Dear DN: Aside from a good general cleaning inside and out, you should have a professional mechanic inspect the entire engine, outdrive and fuel system.

Among the first items we would recommend the mechanic do is to properly dispose of all the gasoline in the tank, as it will be bad. Inspect and/or replace all gasoline hoses from the tank to the engine. These hoses may be cracked especially if they have been sitting for a long time. Replace the water separating fuel filter and the fuel filter at the carburetor. Drain and refill the oil and replace the oil filter. Purchase a new battery and attempt to turn the motor over. Assuming your mechanic can get this far without major expenditure, perform a general tune-up and attempt to start the engine. Once the engine is running, inspect for leaks and overheat conditions. Depending on the age and condition of the engine, the exhaust risers and manifolds may need to be changed as they might be clogged with accumulated salt and rust.

The mechanic should then remove the outdrive and thoroughly inspect the transom area. Replacement of universal and exhaust bellows is a good idea since they may be dry rotted. He should next inspect the shift cable assembly and replace it if worn or stiff. The lower unit should be drained and tested for pressure and vacuum. The water pump should be replaced and the lower unit filled with gear oil. Finally the mechanic fshould reinstall the drive and water test the boat.

Make sure the mechanic checks all the boat running gear, such as lights, blowers, horn etc., to bring the boat to complete operation condition.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: It seem to me that every time I have a repair during the summer I have to wait lfonger than I feel necessary. Why is this? Wanabee Boatin, East Norwich NY.

A: Dear WB: Because our boating season is packed into a few short months, any down time seems longer that it should. The best advice we can offer is to plan your emergency repair better.

Let us put you in the shoes of a marine repair shop. First off, a repair shop’s busiest time is the same time you want to be boating. Staffing, as you can imagine, is a real problem. To have the best-qualified mechanics, a repair shop cannot over staff just for the peak period and then be forced to lay off employees. Nor can he afford to keep extra employees during the winter months when there is less work and thus no revenue to pay his employees.

Another problem is the availability of parts. While most repair shops stock common maintenance items, few will have every part needed for your major repair work. Think about it! How many different pistons for how many different motors would a repair shop have to stock to insure having the right one for a major rebuild? The number boggles the mind!

Most repair shops are on line to the major engine manufacturers and can usually deliver parts the next day if ordered before noon. Problems arise when the part is out of stock at the manufacturer’s local warehouse. These out of stock parts may be sent from another warehouse across the country causing delay in transport. In addition, the manufacturer may be waiting for these out of stock parts to be supplied by one of their vendors making the delay even longer.

Major rebuilding jobs take at least two to three days of the mechanic’s time. Add to this the time to have the block sent out for machining.

What, you ask, can be done to lessen the time of repair? Take your engine to the repair shop even though the shop has told you they are backlogged. The shop, knowing your boat is there, may fit you in when another job is waiting for parts to complete. Do not call the shop every day. This only takes time away from the work that must be done. If you must call, wait until a few days before your promised delivery date to remind the shop you re still waiting. Hopefully they will be able to give you a realistic delivery time at this point. They may even tell you that you are done ahead of schedule!

Have your boat winterized and tuned at the conclusion of this year’s boating season. It makes more sense to do this if the fall rater than wait for spring when your repair shop is busy. You also save labor time by having the boat handled only once. This is the best time to check the lower unit for water ingestion and resolve any problems there may be rather than letting the gears and bearings rust over the winter.

Schedule major boat repairs such as fiberglass work, canvas repairs, or equipment upgrades in the fall to insure the boat will be ready in the spring when you want it.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am looking to re-power my outboard boat. I have heard a lot about four stroke outboards. Can you explain why I should consider installing one on my boat? E.D., Brooklyn NY.

A: Dear E.D.: Four stroke outboards are very similar to your automobile engine. A four-stroke engine has, as its name implies, four distinct operations to produce one power stroke. The first is an intake stroke where fuel and air are introduced into the combustion chamber or cylinder on the downward movement of the piston. The piston travels up compressing the fuel air charge. This is the second stroke. At the proper time when the piston nears the top of its travel, a spark ignites the compressed fuel air charge, which explodes producing a power stroke forcing the piston downward. This is the third stroke. The piston again travels upward expelling the burnt fuel air charge. This is the fourth stroke or exhaust stroke. This process continues until the engine is shut off.

In the two-stroke engine, the downward movement of the piston uncovers an intake port, which allows a fresh fuel air charge into the combustion chamber. The piston travels upward compressing the fuel air mixture. Near the top of its travel, a spark occurs producing a power stroke forcing the piston downward. As the piston travels downward an exhaust port is uncovered allowing the burnt fuel air mixture to exit while the intake port is allowing the fresh fuel air charge to enter.

The operation of the two-stroke engine allows unburned gas and air to escape into the environment because the intake and exhaust ports are opened simultaneously. The four-stroke engine has distinct intake and exhaust cycles, which does not allow unburned fuel to escape into the atmosphere. Additionally noise is reduced in the four-stroke engine because a power stroke is produced half as many times as a two stoke and the intake and exhaust ports are closed which reduces the level of noise the engine makes. This is why the four-stroke engine is a cleaner operating, environmentally and accquistically friendly engine.

Many of the new four-stroke engines come with computer controlled electronic fuel injection. Electronic sensors measure and monitor such functions as air temperature, barometric pressure, cylinder wall operating temperature, and RPM. This system allows precise fuel air measurement thereby increasing fuel economy and further reducing exhaust emissions and insures the engine runs at peak performance under all conditions.

The traditional carbureted systems cannot approach the level of performance of the fuel injection system. They use jets to meter the air fuel mixture and have no sensors to adjust for differing conditions.

Four-stroke engines develop more torque, which is a measure of work performed, lower in the RPM curve than an equivalent two-stroke engine. For the practical application on your boat, this means you can use a four-stroke engine of less horsepower and still achieve similar performance. This may translate to faster out of the hole and planing capability.

The 2002 model year will be a very exciting year for four-stroke technology. With the introduction of the 200 and 225 HP as well as midrange 140HP four-stroke models, the boat owner now has a full range of product to fit almost any application. These new motors also have new technologies, which make them comparable in size and weight to their two-stroke counterparts.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have been considering repowering a Mako 20 foot center console. I presently have a very tired 150HP engine. I am considering both 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines of various horsepower. Could you explain the pros and con’s of each?

LK, Flanders, NY.

A: Dear LK: When repowering a boat you should first consider how you like the performance of your present boat and motor combination? Are you expecting increased speed, different cruising rpm, or decreased time to plane? By evaluating the answers to these questions, you can narrow down the horsepower rating of the new engine. In general, the newer engines of less horsepower perform as well, if not better, than the older engines they will replace. This is due to a number of factors including fuel injection vs. carburation, and 2 stroke vs. 4-stroke technology.

Let’s take a closer look at 4 stroke benefits. The first and most important factor is that the 4 stroke, by its design, does not burn oil as a process to produce power. This means that the 4 stroke does not pollute the environment since there is no smoke while operating thus meeting the stringent EPA 2006 emission requirements. The only 2 stroke engines able to meet the 2006 standard are those that are fuel injected.

Second, 4 stroke engines burn less fuel. Depending on the engine selected, fuel consumption can be as much as 50% less than your older model. You may find that a 4 stroke on your boat may give you even greater fuel savings when compared to your old 2 stroke. This means you could carry less fuel and have the same range, or greatly increase your cruising range with a full tank of fuel. Also because oil is not being added to the fuel another economic benefit will result.

Thirdly, 4 strokes are much quieter while operating. At idle, most engines are difficult to hear. At full speed, you can carry on a conversation at the helm with your fishing buddy. A typical 4 stroke operates with much less vibration as well.

Fourth, 4 stroke engines have a flatter torque curve than equivalent 2 strokes. A flat torque curve provides plenty of power throughout the entire speed range from low to high speeds and increases the overall drivability. This means less 4-stroke horsepower is required to move the rig through the water.

One disadvantage of the 4 stroke vs. 2-stroke comparison could be the weight difference. 4 stroke engines in general weigh more than 2 strokes of the same horsepower. At the HP level you require the weight difference could be over 100 pounds. To test your boat with this much added weight simply stand close to the present engine and see how far down the transom goes. It most cases however, this weight difference amounts to ½” or less of extra draft. This means your boat will still be able to selfbail with the 4 stroke on board.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: What does a battery isolator do? Can I install one myself? GB, Islip Terrace, NY.

A: Dear GB: A battery isolator is a device which allows both batteries in a dual battery system to be charged independent of the position of the battery switch, while the engine is running. Without a battery isolator, only the battery selected by the switch is being charged.

The installation is fairly straightforward and is within the skills of the average boater. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and you should be okay. The equipment will cost between $65-80 and is available through most marine parts suppliers.

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Do you find that your trailer lights never work? Or at least it seems that way, doesn’t it? Well, as you know, the only way to get on the road is to make sure your lights are in working order.

The best way to begin this project is to purchase a trailer light and wiring kit. Look for one labeled submersible. Remember not all kits have this feature. This kit will contain two multifunction submersible taillights (right and left hand), two side marker lights, (if your trailer is over 80 inches wide), license plate bracket, a new wiring harness with trunk connector, and mounting hardware. Most importantly, a detailed instruction pamphlet will be included to help you through the project. Complete trailer light kits cost between $30-60.

Gather together your basic hand tools including wrenches, Phillips and straight screwdrivers, and side cutting pliers. You may even need a hack saw to cut off the old light mounting screws since they will most likely be rusted together.

Remove the left and right taillights and the left and right side marker lights. Cut the wiring where it comes out of the lights leaving a couple inches of length. Use the old wiring as a messenger, that is, tape a strong thin string to the end of the wire of all four lights and pull through the trailer frame towards the front of the trailer. Once you have the messenger string at the front of the trailer, tape the new wiring to the messenger string and pull back through the frame to the original light locations. Connect the new wiring to the new lights following the directions that come with the kit. Fasten the completed light assemblies to the trailer frame. If you don’t wish to run the new wiring within the trailer frame, you can use plastic wire ties to fasten the wires to the outside of the frame.

Connect the new trailer 4-wire connector to your vehicle. Test to make sure the trailer lights are working by pushing on the brakes and turning on the left and right turn signals. The side marker lights should come on when the headlights of the vehicle are turned on.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am thinking about selling my boat and maybe buying a new one. What is the best way to do this? CC Valley Stream NY.

A: Dear CC: Obviously there are two ways of selling your boat. One is through a boat dealer and the other is by yourself. When you use a boat dealer he will charge a brokerage fee that is normally ten percent of the selling price. He may also charge you for any repairs required that have to be made to bring the boat into safe operating condition.

The boat dealers will have more traffic at his showroom than you will and he will also do all the advertising for you as well as qualifying potential buyer end negotiating the best price. He already has a reputation in the market for the products he sells and customer will be more inclined to buy if a reputable dealer is involved.

When selling the boat yourself, remember that selling your boat is like selling your house. You will rarely get more than the market value, but the cleaner, more equipped, and water ready it is the faster it will sell.

If you are planning to buy a new boat, you should weigh the advantage and disadvantages of trading the boat to the dealer from whom you are buying the new boat. Although the value the dealer will give you for your old boat may be considerably less than the market value, you will not have to pay sales tax on the amount of the trade, which is deducted from the price of the new boat. You will also not own two boats at the same time or spend time waiting for your old boat to sell until you can get the new one. The dealer will also take care of all the necessary paperwork required.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Could you educate me on the necessity for signaling devices on my boat? PT Huntington Station NY.

A: Dear PT: All vessels used on coastal waters, the Great Lakes, territorial seas, and those waters connected directly to them up to a point where a body of water is less than two miles wide, must be equipped with United States Coast guard approved visual distress signals. Vessels owned in the United States, operating on the high seas must also be equipped as well.

The following vessels are not required to carry day signals but must carry night signals when operating from sunset to sunrise:

Recreational boats less than 16 feet in length
Boats participating in organized events such as races, regattas, or marine parades
Open sailboats less then 26 feet in length not equipped with propulsion machinery
Manually propelled boats

To meet the Coast Guard visual distress requirements, a minimum of three visual distress signals must be carried. Any combination of signals may be carried so long as they add up to three signals for day use and three signals for night use. Search and rescue experts recommend that you carry at least six signals on board.

Pyrotechnic signaling devices (including aerial and hand held signals) expire 42 months after the date of manufacture in accordance with the Coast Guard requirements. This means that you must replace your flares every three boating seasons. The Coast Guard regulations require that each pyrotechnic device must be stamped with the expiration date. Only non-expired signals comply with Coast Guard requirements.

The Coast Guard may impose a civil penalty up to $1,100.00 for failure to comply with equipment requirements.

The purpose of distress signaling is simple: first, to attract attention, and second, to pinpoint your location to guide the responding party to your craft. Remember nothing can happen until someone’s attention is attracted!

Only visual distress signals marked with a US Coast Guard approval or certification number meet the Coast Guard requirements. The most commonly used and recommended marine distress signals for meeting the Coast Guard signal requirements are:

Red parachute aerial flares- accepted day or night use
Red aerial flares- accepted day or night use
Hand held red signal flares- accepted day or night use
Hand held orange smoke signal- accepted day use only
Three by three- foot orange distress flag- accepted day use only

If you are in a signaling situation:

1. Conserve your signals until you are reasonably sure of being detected. Wait until you see or hear a vessel or aircraft before using “one-time” signals.
2. Stay with the boat if it is safe to do so. A boat is easier to spot than a swimmer.
3. US Coast Guard approved marine signals improve your chances or rescue, but anything that works is good. Shout, flash your running lights, wave a piece of clothing, use your windshield as a mirror flash, use a flashlight, anything that is available to attract attention.
4. Above all, familiarize yourself with your signals before you leave shore. Time is important in any emergency and shouldn’t be spent reading instructions!

The most effective signal for attracting someone’s attention are aerial flares and parachute flares, because they are moving, spectacular, and cover a large sighting area. Once help is on the way, hand held red signal flares, orange smoke signals and orange distress flare serve as beacons for rescuers to pinpoint your position and keep them on course.

Pistol launched and hand held parachute flares and meteors have many characteristics of a firearm and must be handled with caution. In some states, they are considered a firearm and prohibited from use. To load the 12-gauge launcher, break the launcher open, insert 12-gauge aerial flare and close launcher. For most effective use, fire only after sighting a potential rescue vessel. Hold the launcher above eye level, point straight up, cock the hammer and squeeze the trigger. The US Coast Guard recommends your fire two aerial flares, one immediately after the other so rescuers can confirm the sighting and/or direction of the signal. Therefore you should repeat firing when the first flare has burned out.
Whenever a pistol or hand held rocket propelled distress signal is used; the wind must be taken into account. In calm winds, keep your arm at approximately 60 degrees above the horizon with the wind at your back when firing the device. As the wind increases, increase the angle of your arm, but no more than about 80-85 degrees. No pyrotechnic device should be fired straight up or in such a direction that it may land on your boat or another boat, or on land, and cause a fire.

To set off hand held red signal flares and orange smoke signal flares, grasp the bottom of the signal firmly below the holding line on the label. Point is away from face and body and aim downward. Remove the back lid on the cap; twist the cap and remove and save to ignite the signal. For most effective use, ignite after sighting a potential rescue vessel. Strike the igniter button on top of the signal with the abrasive surface on the cap. Hold the burning signal over the side of the boat and aim downward. Do not wave the signal overhead.

The orange distress flag must be at least three by three feet with a black-square and ball on an orange background. It is most distinctive when attached and waved on a paddle, boat hook or flown from a mast. The SOS flag may also be incorporated as part of the devices designed to attract attention in an emergency such as balloons, kites, or floating streamers.

Expired pyrotechnic signals can be used as backup as their potency is about six years. They can also be donated to local Coast Guard auxiliary or Power Squadron chapters for use in their training classes.

Regulations prohibit the display of visual distress signals on the water under any circumstances except when assistance is required to prevent immediate or potential danger to persons on board a vessel.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My outboard was running perfectly at the end of last season. I performed my usual winterization procedure and this year the engine is difficult to keep running at idle. When I can get it into gear and get moving the engine runs okay. I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner down the throats of the carburetors but this does not seem to help. Do you have any ideas on what to try next? PV, Holtsville NY.

A: Dear PV: Before you take the route that point to suspecting the carburetors, you should eliminate all other possibilities. Remove each spark plug from the cylinder head. Make sure mark each one indicating which cylinder it came from as this will aid in your troubleshooting efforts, and keep them in order. Examine each one and compare them to the others to make sure they all appear the same. Take a compression reading of each cylinder and note the readings. The cylinder compression readings should be within ten percent of each other. If the spark plugs look good and the compression readings are equal you can move on to the next test.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. It is okay to raise the engine speed slightly to keep the engine running. Take the cylinder head temperature readings. A cold running engine can cause a stalling problem at idle. If the engine temperature is between 125 and 135 degrees when measured at the top of the cylinder head, your engine is at the correct temperature.

If the above tests did not solve the problem, the most likely cause will then be the carburetors. The carburetor mixes air and fuel to provide the cylinders with the proper When you use carburetor cleaner, it cleans the air venturi which is not where the problem lies. The only method to clean the carbs is to remove them, disassemble and clean the internal passages. If you do not feel comfortable working on the delicate interiors of the carbs, leave this work to the professionals. Reinstall the carbs, perform the sync and link procedure according to the service manual and you should be back in business.

In rare situations stalling at idle can also be caused by crankcase air leaks. This condition will require the complete disassembly of the engine to reseal the crankcase halves.

Q: Dear Boat Talk: My brother-in-law and I bought the same identical boat from the same dealer. After the boats were delivered, we were comparing prices and noticed we were not charged the same amount of sales tax. Can you explain why? TF, Huntington NY

A: Dear TF: On March 1st, of 2001, a change in the New York State sales and use tax law took effect. Under the new law sales tax is based on the state and local tax rate in effect where you reside. Before March 1, 2001, sales tax was based on the state and local tax rate where the boat was delivered to the customer.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Last fall you column advised that I should leave my gas tank almost empty rather than fill it to the top. What do I do now to get the fuel system ready for spring? DS, Babylon NY.

A: Dear DS: At this time you should fill your gas tank with non-oxygenated gasoline. The fuel companies have advised us that the summer blend gasolines have been available since April 1st. This is a month earlier than last year.

If you don’t have a water separating fuel filter, this would be a good time to add one. A filter of this type has to ability to separate water from the fuel and trap the water in a canister for easy removal. Some models have a see thru bowl so you can easily check for any water. Other models require you to spin off the filter element and drain the contents. The filter elements are reusable, but should be changed at least once per season.

By checking the contents of the filter, you can determine how much water if any is present. Remember that most engines will not run on water—only the boat is supposed to! Check the filter after the boat has been run a few times. There should only be a small amount of water if you have followed our advice.

If you should find large quantities of water each time you use the boat, it is advisable to drain the water from the fuel tank. Siphoning from the bottom of the tank does this. (Water is heavier than fuel and thus is found at the bottom of the tank)

If you are the slightest bit uncertain how to proceed, please take your boat to a professional.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: When I uncovered my boat this spring, I noticed many of the electrical items on the boat were not working. What is the proper procedure to make them all work again? TE, Copiague, NY.

A: Dear TE: Probably the most neglected item on boats is the electrical system. Over the winter, oxidation to the contact ends of the electrical components is a given. A thorough cleaning and inspection of this system will insure these components will work throughout the season.

Starting with the battery system, check the electrolite level in the battery making sure the fluid covers the top of the plates. Add distilled water if the fluid level is low. Charge the battery (s) with a trickle charger for at least twenty-four hours. Clean the entire battery to remove any loose dirt using a spray cleaner and rag. Also clean the battery terminals where the main battery wiring makes surface connections. If you have clamp on type battery wiring, make sure both the sides and top of the battery terminal are clean and bright. If your battery system has wing nuts, the top of the battery terminal should also be clean and bright. Use a file or the edge of a short knife blade to scrape away the dirt until a bright surface appears.

To check the battery wiring, inspect each wire terminal end. Wiggle each wire and look for loose, broken or green moldy connections. Replace the battery terminal ends on the wire if broken or loose. If the wiring is okay, clean the terminal ends and attach to the battery. If you have wing nuts, do not rely on only finger tight connections. Tighten the wings nuts with a suitable tool to insure vibration will not loosen them during the season.

Next, check the navigation lights. Turn on the navigation lights at the helm and check the bow light. If it is not working, remove the two screws holding the light and remove the bulb. Very often the bulb connections will be oxidized. Clean the bulb connections and the terminal connections by scraping or filing. If the light still does not work, measure the voltage across the connection with a Volt-Ohm meter or a simple 12V tester. Both of these devices are available at a marine supply or electronics store. If 12 volts is present on the meter and the bulb still does not light, replace the bulb. If 12 volts is not present, either the wiring or the switch at the dash is defective and must be replaced. Check the stern pole light in the same fashion. If both the bow and stern lights are not working check the fuse or circuit breaker under the dash. These, too, will get oxidized and require periodic cleaning.

Check all of the other electrical items on the boat such as the bilge pump, horn, blower, etc., in a similar fashion.

Before launching the boat, clean off the depth finder transducer paying particular attention to the bottom of the transducer. Lightly sand off the crud on the bottom of the transducer. Coat the transducer with anti-fouling paint especially made for this purpose. Make sure that the transducer is at the correct angle and is firmly held in place.

If you have a VHF Radio, tune to the weather channels in your area to make sure the receiver is functioning. Once the boat is launched, attempt to communicate with other boaters in the local area by requesting a radio check.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am getting my boat ready for spring launch. I know I have to paint the bottom of the boat. Do I need to paint the engine as well? JJ, Coram, NY.

Dear JJ: When a boat is kept in the water for an extended period of time, the bottom must be protected with bottom paint against marine growth such as barnacles. Most bottom paints are ablative. That is, a small amount of paint is sloughed off each time the boat is driven exposing a fresh concentration of the biocide material. The biocide material keeps the barnacles away from the boat bottom. It is like cod liver oil to the barnacles, they hate the taste. With ablative paints, the more the boat is used the cleaner the bottom. Most ablative paints last only one season and should be applied at the beginning of each boating season.

Unwanted critters not only attach themselves to the boat bottom but also to engine parts that are submerged in salt water. If your engine is an outboard and the trim and tilt system allows the lower unit to come completely out of the water at the dock, then antifouling paint is not required. On the other hand, if you have an outboard or stern drive that does not come completely out of the water, you must apply antifouling paint to protect against unwanted passengers. The bottom paint used on your boat cannot be used on these engine parts as they are made of aluminum. The paint used on your boat bottom contains copper as the active biocide ingredient, while the engine requires a paint, which contains tin. Since these tin-based paints are restricted use paints, they cannot be sold over the counter in large quantities without the proper license. They are generally sold in 16-ounce spray containers to the public.

When getting your outboard ready, you should touch up the bare spots and scratches with the original manufacturers paint to prevent corrosion to the aluminum parts. The antifouling paint should be applied to those parts the are in contact with the water when the engine is not in use. Painting the propeller is not necessary since once the engine is put in use; the antifouling paint will wear off rapidly.

Stern drives should have both the lower unit and intermediate housing painted. Make sure to tilt the lower unit up and apply paint to the exposed inner parts of the intermediate housing to prevent unwanted tenants from establishing barnacle hotels.

In general, most boats should be launched after allowing sufficient drying time for the paint, usually, within thirty days. Read the label directions on the paint can for more specific details.

Dear Boat Talk: What is involved in painting a boat bottom for the first time? PB, Port Jefferson NY.

Dear PB: To begin the process of applying bottom paint for the first time, you need to know where the water line will be on your boat. The correct way to do this is to launch the boat with the engine installed and a full tank of fuel. Allow the boat to sit for a few hours to establish a water line mark on the hull.

Remove the boat from the water and let the water mark dry completely. Use masking tape to follow the water line mark leaving about a two-inch space above the water line. This allows for the added weight of passengers and equipment on the boat. Clean the bottom of all debris and de-wax the hull below the water line. Wax is used when building the boat to help remove the boat from the mold after it has cured. Use clean rags to remove all of the wax. Commercial de-waxers are available in all marine stores.

Apply a bottom paint primer using a wide paintbrush or roller. The primer prepares the boat bottom to accept the bottom paint. Allow the primer to dry before applying bottom paint using a paint roller. Remove the masking tape and you will have an even water line on your boat.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My steering wheel is much harder to turn this year than last season. What causes this and what can I do to fix it? PR, East Moriches NY.

A: Dear PR: The most common cause of hard steering is the lack of proper lubrication between the steering tube on the engine and the steering cable ram that passes through it. The steering tube is located on the front of the engine mounts and is used as an anchoring point for the engine end of the steering system. The steering cable connects the engine to the steering wheel and helm assembly under the dash. The helm assembly contains gears and bearing used to convert the rotary motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion required to turn the engine.

To properly lubricate the engine end of the steering system, you must withdraw the steering ram from the steering tube. Disconnect the steering link arm from the cable end, (usually the port side of the engine) and then remove the large nut on the starboard side of the engine anchoring the steering cable. On some boats the steering cable can now be removed from the tube. Other boats may require the removal of the engine from the transom to completely withdraw the steering cable. If you cannot get the steering ram out of the steering tube is would be wise to turn this job over to a professional.

To clean out the inside of the steering tube, use a small wire brush to scrape out years of accumulated rust, salt, and corrosion. Extend the steering cable by turning the steering wheel to expose the full length of the ram end. Wipe down the steering ram end with cleaner to take off the old grease and grime. Lubricate the cable end with marine grease.

If the problem was lack of lubrication, you will find it easy to turn the wheel to port and starboard without a lot of pressure. If the wheel turns easily you have solved the steering problem. Insert the cable end into the steering tube, tighten the large nut and fasten the steering link arm. To avoid future problems, this procedure should be done every year.

If you have done all the above and the steering wheel is still hard to turn, the steering system will need to be replaced.

In recent years, the price of a complete steering system has come down to a point where it is more expensive to replace just the cable that it is to replace the entire steering system. When you are buying a new system make sure you select the proper sized helm assembly for the horsepower rating of your engine. Some systems will only handle loads of small engines through 140 horsepower. High performance applications require special steering systems. Check with your marine dealer for help selecting the proper size.

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You have always taken pride in your ability to troubleshoot and diagnose stern drive engines and lower units. At the marina you are known as Dr. Sterndrive.

We are sure you know these Dr. Sterndrive types. Test your knowledge with this troubleshooting quiz to see how he rates versus what you know.

1) Your seven year old Alpha I generation II powered boat stalls when shifting from neutral into forward or reverse. The most likely cause is:

a) engine idle speed is too low
b) Seven years is old for a boat, it just doesn’t want to move anymore!
c) the shift cable is tight and must be replaced
d) the shift interrupt switch is not adjusted correctly

2) The shift interrupt switch on your Alpha I drive is not functioning. The most likely symptom is:

a) The drive will not go into forward gear
b) It takes excessive force to get the shift handle out of gear
c) You can’t start the boat
d) The drive makes a clunking noise when going into gear

3) You are taking a leisurely cruise around the lake and everything is fine. As you approach the dock the engine stalls and you can’t restart it. You can not hear the starter motor engaging when turning the key. What could be wrong?

a) The alternator went bad and the battery is not being recharged.
b) A battery lead fell off during the cruise
c) You have not shifted into neutral before attempting to restart the engine
d) You ran out of gas

4) Your Alpha I drive goes into gear okay at the dock and as long as the rpm isn’t over 2500 everything seems fine. When accelerating to bring the boat up on plane, you notice a random clunking noise which causes the boat to shutter. What could be wrong?

a) You have both a worn clutch dog and forward gear
b) The shift cable is misadjusted
c) You think you hit bottom
d) The noise is coming from the cooler as the beer cans fall over upon acceleration

5) After cruising for some time at normal speed, suddenly the engine rpm goes up and the boat slows down. A strong burning rubber smell is evident. What happened?

a) The rubber hub on the propeller failed
b) An alternator belt is loose
c) The engine coupler failed
d) The drive trimmed itself up due to a malfunction of the trim pump

6) When you depress the trim button on the control handle in the up direction everything works fine. Depressing the down button won’t make the drive go down. The most common cause is:

a) The down circuit fluid needs to be changed
b) The down relay is defective
c) The switch in the handle is defective
d) A crab is caught in the drive not letting it go down

7) You have noticed that over the last few boating seasons the temperature gauge has been reading a few degrees higher each season. What’s going on here?

a) Global warming has increased the water temperature
b) Maybe it’s time to change the water pump
c) Cooling water flow is being restricted by clogged manifolds and risers
d) This is normal, engines work harder when they get older, hence higher temperatures

8) During the winter layup season, you tuned the engine installing new plugs, points, rotor, condenser, and distributor cap. The engine ran fine before winter layup. In the spring, the engine turns over but will not start. Why?

a) You have installed the rotor backwards
b) You forgot to install the rotor
c) The points have been in the open position all winter and have oxidized
d) The plugs are fouled with fogging oil

9) Your motor turns over but will not start. It is getting fuel. You have troubleshot the ignition system and have found a no spark condition. Which components could be faulty?

a) Spark plugs
b) Ignition coil
c) Tachometer
d) Both b and c

10) You have a convential ignition system (points, rotor, condenser, etc) and every few hours of operation the ignition coil stops working. This has happened at least twice before. What can you do to fix this problem?

a) Buy a high quality racing ignition coil
b) Change the spark plug wire set
c) Add a series resistor to the 12v lead of the coil
d) Install a new high energy solid state ignition system

11) This is your first year with a new Alpha drive. You have removed the 6 mounting nuts and power trim cylinders from the outdrive but the outdrive will not come off the boat. What’s wrong?

a) The outdrive is glued on at the factory, use a bigger pry bar
b) The shift lever must be in forward gear to remove the drive
c) The shift lever must be in reverse gear to remove the drive
d) Salt has corroded the drive to the gimbal housing

12) You have taken your know-it-all mechanic out for a spin. He mumbled something about a bearing toward the rear of the boat that is growling. He said it should be changed. Which bearing is he talking about?

a) muffler bearing
b) self lubricating bearing and hoffer shaft
c) gimbal bearing
d) top drive shaft bearing

13) You are attempting to remove an Alpha I outdrive for routine maintenance. The shifter is in forward gear and you have removed all six mounting nuts and the power trim cylinder assemblies yet you cannot remove the drive from the boat. Why?

a) The engine alignment changed causing the drive shaft spline to bind within the engine coupler.
b) A hole in the universal bellows boot has allowed seawater to enter. Salt-water corrosion has caused the binding of the driveshaft within the gimbal bearing.
c) A large pry bar and heavy hammer are always necessary to remove the drive.
d) Barnacles have positioned themselves over the drive-to-gimbal housing joint making it impossible to remove the drive.

14) You have just completed a major tune-up on your 5.7-liter V-8 engine with HEI ignition. The engine is very hard to start, or if does start, runs for a short time, backfires and dies. You have checked the timing, made sure the ignition wires are connected to the correct spark plug, and the compression is okay. What happened?

a) The rotor wheel is installed upside down.
b) The fuel pump relay is defective.
c) The rotor that was installed is from a V-6 motor
d) The distributor cap is defective

15) Your V-6 4.3L engine stalls when shifting from neutral to forward or reverse. Upon removing the drive, salt-water corrosion is evident within the shift shaft area. The shift shaft boot appears intact with no leaks. The problem is:

a) a worn seal on the shift shaft
b) a defective gasket between the outdrive and transom assembly
c) a defective o-ring on the shift cable
d) cracked housing on the lower unit

16) Your V-8 powered I/O has no power. Timing and compression are within specs. Recently the motor overheated due to a run in with a sand bar, however you are sure all the related problems were fixed. Any ideas?

a) Due to the overheat some or all of the valves are tuliped
b) The overheat caused the manifold to crack letting water into some of the cylinders
c) The overheat melted the exhaust flappers which have dislodged from their mounting, fallen into the exhaust Y pipe, and are blocking the exhaust.
d) The overheat condition caused the ignition advance curve in the ignition module to change.

17) In the spring the boat received a much needed compounding and wax job. Upon launching the boat you find the engine will start and stall some time later. You suspect a fuel problem. When you open the gas tank filler cap, the sound of rushing air can be heard. What could be wrong?

a) The fuel pump is bad
b) The fuel filter has an air leak
c) Debris from the compound and buffer wheel clogged the fuel tank vent
d) The air filter is dirty and must be replaced

18) You have been fishing all day with your young son. At one time, fishing line was entangled with the lower unit. While driving home the alarm sounds. Upon checking the possible causes for the alarm signal, you discover a low gear oil condition in the lower unit monitor. What should you do?

a) Add gear oil to the lube monitor
b) Pull the propeller and inspect for fishing line
c) Have the lower unit checked for pressure and vacuum, repair as needed
d) All of the above

19) A good friend asked you to look over a boat he is considering purchasing. The boat has been in storage a few years. Everything looks ok except for one freeze out plug that is missing. What would your recommendation be?

a) Buy the boat, a freeze out plug is easy to replace
b) The boat was most likely stored improperly and there may be other internal engine damage
c) All hoses and belts should be changed
d) None of the above

20) Last year you winterized your 4.3-L engine and boat on the trailer. Upon start up this year, water is seen coming from a crack in the exhaust elbow. You are positive enough antifreeze was added to the engine. Why did this happen?

a) Depending upon fore and aft angle of the engine, fresh water could get trapped within the manifolds, which when allowed to freeze, may crack the manifold
b) You did not add enough antifreeze
c) You used antifreeze with the incorrect burst protection
d) A small leak is ok

21) Your 3.0L engine with conventional ignition starts but does not run well above 1500 RPM and lacks power. A complete tune-up did not solve the problem. What could be wrong?

a) The ignition timing module is defective
b) Initial timing is incorrect
c) Mechanical weights within the distributor are frozen which will not allow timing to advance
d) Engine is under sized for the boat

22) Your V-8’s compression is the same on all cylinders except one. Why?

a) You dropped the compression gauge during the test
b) Most likely a valve is not closing all the way
c) Compression ring on the spark plug is defective
d) Excessive carbon on piston or valve will cause higher than normal compression reading.

23) The boat has just been launched for the first spring ride. You bring up the throttle to the red line and the engine bucks and misses at top RPM. The engine runs smooth at all RPM’s otherwise. Why?

a) Cracked anode on the spark plug
b) Defective ignition wires
c) The overrev limiter is activating
d) Defective ignition module

24) After a day’s outing, a routine check of your oil reveals a level higher than normal. Why?

a) Leaking head gasket is allowing fuel to drain into oil pan
b) The oil generator switch is defective
c) Incorrect dip stick has been used to check the oil level
d) The oil filter bypass circuit is activated due to a clogged oil filter

25) Your wife surprised you by thoroughly cleaning the boat. Unfortunately, she left the engine cover off while she was spraying down the boat. Now the boat won’t start. Why?

a) She got water in the carburetor
b) The engine cover ripped off a few spark plug wires
c) Water in the distributor cap is shorting out the ignition
d) The battery got wet and shorted the terminals

Answers:
1) c
2) b
3) c
4) a
5) c
6) b
7) c
8) c
9) d
10) b
11) b
12) c
13) b
14) c
15) a
16) c
17) c
18) d
19) b
20) a
21) c
22) b
23) c
24) a
25) c

Scoring:
25 Wow, you can work on my motor anytime!
22-24 Consider yourself an ace marine mechanic
15-21 Fairly respectable troubleshooting skills
8-14 Better brush up on your I/O knowledge before leaving shore
0-7 Don’t let them see you coming at the marina

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I have just purchased a used 90HP Evinrude engine with oil injection feature. I have always mixed my own oil and gas together and would like to do the same on this engine. Can you tell me how to eliminate the oil injection feature? Old Fashioned, Centerport NY.

A: Dear Old Fashioned: It sounds like your fear of oil injections feature on this motor comes from the fact that you do not know if the system is working properly. Here is how you can tell if it is. Fill the oil tank almost to the top and make a mark at the oil level. Prepare an additional amount of oil and gas mixture the same as your have always done in you gas tank. Then run the boat for a few hours under normal boating conditions. Check the oil tank to see if the oil level has gone down. If it has the oil injection system is working properly.

The purpose of the oil injection system is to allow the proper amount of gas to oil ratio at various operating speeds. At idle speed the oil injection system supplies a ratio of about 100:1, at full speed the ratio changes to 50:1.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: This year I will be trailering my boat for the first time. I will be keeping it at a boat yard and even though, it will be located behind a fence, I am still very concerned about theft. What precautions can I take to make the causal thief pass my boat by? EW, Sound Beach NY.

A: Dear EW: There are a number of simple things you can do to make your boat less inviting as a potential target, and many devices you can install to secure your boat. You are right; the professional boat thief will get the motor, the boat, or the whole rig no matter what precautions you have taken. You are trying to protect your boat from the causal thief.

At a bare minimum, you should make sure the owner or operator of the boat yard is aware of your schedule. Always let him know when you will be using the boat and, more importantly, when you will not be using the boat for an extended period of time. This will enable him to observe the boat daily to see if anything is amiss. Always take the ignition keys and safety lanyard with you when you leave the boat. Ditto for all the electronics such as depth finder, VHF radio, stereo, CD player, and other non-factory installed items you may have on board. We would not recommend you place them in the cabin, if you have one on your boat. Once inside, the thief can get all of these items at one time.

If you don’t have a mooring cover or trailer cover for the boat, you might invest in one so that the boat interior is covered. Out of sight, out of mind, as the old saying goes.

Many products are available to secure the other valuable motor components such as the propeller, and even the whole outboard motor itself. Many companies make a propeller lock which replaces the large nut on the prop shaft with a locking device so that the prop nut cannot be removed. Similar locking devices are also available for the outboard mounting bolt nut. Remove the standard nut and replace it with a motor lock nut. This will keep the thief from removing the outboard motor. If you have a kicker motor you can chain the motor to the outboard bracket. If the boat is an I/O, you can install a locking device on one of the outdrive mounting bolts to make the outdrive harder to remove.

To secure the trailer, you can purchase a lock that fits over the trailer tongue to keep someone from simply connecting your boat to his car and taking the whole rig. Wheel lock nuts are also available to secure the trailer tires. They work the same as the prop and motor locks mentioned above. Some folks place a chain and lock thru the trailer rims and around the trailer frame to keep the trailer from being moved. Unless you use a hardened chain for this purpose, the thief can simply cut or hack saw the chain and remove the entire rig. Devices called elephant boots are also available. These mount around the trailer tires and keep the trailer from being moved by not allowing the tire to rotate.

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With gasoline prices so high and prices at the boatyard soaring, here a few money saving tips.

When fueling up try not to top off your tanks. Overflow fuel from the gas vent can amount to a considerable quantity. The summer’s heat can also expand the volume of gasoline in the tank causing it to overflow. Shut off the pump nozzle before the tank reaches full capacity. Purchase and use a fuel overflow container. These devices use a suction cup to attach over the fuel tank vent to catch fuel coming from the vent. Dock at a marina, which is closer to your favorite fishing area. Overall you will use less gas getting there.

Trailer your boat instead of docking it. You can fill up your boat’s gas tank less expensively on the street than at marina. You will also save by not having to paint the bottom each year. Consider high and dry rack storage instead of slip rental. It will also save the cost of bottom painting. Make sure your engine is tuned up. A well-tuned engine maximizes your gas efficiency. Have your propeller reconditioned. This will give better fuel economy. If you are considering a re-power of your outboard boat, investigate newer four stroke electronic fuel injected engines. Have your mechanic perform your tune up and winterization at the same time. This saves on double handling and labor time, which saves service charges.

Consider multi-function electronics like depth finder and GPS in one unit. You are only paying for one installation and the initial cost is less than two separate units. Have repairs performed by authorized dealers who have the tools, training, and technical information to get the job done quickly saving labor time and money. Take an adult education course on engine and boat repair. You can do minor repairs and tune-ups saving yourself money. Use your boat often during the season so that growth does not build up on the bottom wasting fuel and slowing the boat. If your boat has many seasons of old bottom paint, have the layers removed and start with a fresh coat of bottom paint to improve efficiency. Apply multi-season bottom paint. This will cut your bottom paint bill in half.

Consider paying your yard bill in advance and ask for an early pay discount, which many boat yards give especially over the winter. Join organizations like Sea-Tow and Boat U.S., which offer discounts thru participating marinas on repairs and parts. Take a boating course through the power squadron or Coast Guard auxiliary. Most insurance companies will offer a discount for the successful completion of a basic boating course. Watch for sales at marine supply stores. Stock up on reduced items.

Buy bulk oil for your outboard. It is the same quality oil. You just have to bring your empty container. You may save as much as $5.00 a gallon.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: The water around where I boat is very shallow. Is there some way I could get my boat off the bottom when the engine cannot be used? BD, Valley Stream NY.

A: Dear BD: Your letter did not mention the size of your boat, so we will assume that is not a very large craft. One method of getting your boat into deep water would be to push the boat with a paddle of pole.

Another method is to throw out your anchor in the direction you wish to travel, set the anchor and pull the boat toward the anchor. You may have to repeat this procedure a few times until the boat is in deeper water.

The “ when all else fails” method requires getting out of the boat and pushing it. Remember to keep a swimsuit of wet suit on board unless you don’t mind getting wet. Only try this method during the warm months as cold water can result in hypothermia or worse.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I read your column last month about VHF radio vs. Cellphone communications for my boat. I took your advice and purchased aVHF. Can you tell me the proper way to use it? WM, Northport NY.

A: Dear WM: congratulations on your purchase of a new VHF radio. Three reasons for using a marine VHF radio are to get help, to contact other boaters, and to get weather information.

The marine VHF radio is a one way at a time communications device. You must press the microphone button to transmit to other parties and release the button to hear other parties calling you. Your radio is equipped with a number of different channels. Some channels are set aside for non-commercial use, and some for public correspondence.

Channel 16 is used as a calling and distress channel. The Coast Guard monitors Channel 16, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The Coast Guard requests all boats while underway to monitor Channel 16 as well. If your see a loose vessel or debris on the water that can cause a hazardous condition, please alert the Coast Guard on this channel.

Twice a day the Coast Guard will broadcast notices to mariners which contain marine information such as weather conditions, buoys off station or unlit, unusual shoaling conditions, inoperable bridges, or any aids to navigation that are not working. They are currently broadcasting a 7:10AM and 7:10 PM.

A broadcast from the Coast Guard can come at any time to notify boaters of severe weather conditions or any problems on the water. These broadcasts are prefixed by several terms. One is Securite, which is from the French for “Safety” and usually proceeds a message concerning safety problems on the water. Pan, Pan (sounds like Pon) from the French word “urgency” is used for emergency communication. Mayday from the French for “my life” is used for distress situations.

A distress call should only be made on Channel 16. The correct way to make a distress call is to begin by saying Mayday!, Mayday!, Mayday!, this is the vessel (give your boat name), your position, (as simple as the number of the buoy closest to you) number of people on board, a description of your vessel including registration number, make of boat, length, color and any identifying characteristics. We suggest you keep this information attached to your VHF radio in case you are not the person making the call.

The only acceptable conditions for a Mayday call are serious risk to life of property. If you feel a possible Mayday situation could arise, alert the Coast Guard for assistance information. Don’t wait too long!

Three local distress receivers have the capability to cover the length of Long Island and up to twenty miles offshore. These national distress high-sites are located at Fire Island, Shinncock and Montauk. These receivers are monitored at the group headquarters in East Moriches and the local Coast Guard stations. Depending on the signal strengths from each receiver they can determine the position of the boat calling. If you should hear a distress call let the Coast Guard know you position and how strong the distress call signal was. This information can help pinpoint the position of the boat in distress.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: I am looking for a VHF radio for my boat. Some dealers have told me I could use a cellular phone instead. Which one should I use and why? TP, Center Moriches NY.

A: Dear TP: The decision to select a VHF or Cellular phone depends upon here you primarily do your boating. If you stay close to shore in protected bays, never out of sight of land, a cellular phone will provide you the communications you may need in an emergency. Cellular phones will only work up to 25 miles offshore.

When using a cellular phone for emergency situations, you will want to make sure that you have a fresh supply of batteries, and of course, a list of important phone numbers to contact. Make sure your cellular phone number is attached to your phone in case you panic and/or do not remember it. This is also a good idea in case someone else needs to use your phone to summon aid.

The Coast Guard recommends using a VHF radio whenever you are on the water. The Coast Guard monitors Channel 16. They have direction finding equipment to assist in locating a boater in distress. In a life threatening situation, radio direction finding capability allows them to triangulate your exact position to locate you quickly. Their direction finding equipment has been tested to have coverage to 25 miles out with a one watt radio.

Another good reason for using a VHF radio is that other boaters also monitor Channel 16 thereby increasing your chance of being heard by people in your immediate area. Many people use this channel to contact fellow boaters and then switch channels to keep the emergency channel (16) clear.

The Coast Guard responds to calls for help form VHF radio communications or visual signals such as flares. In emergency rescue situations, the Coast Guard coordinates with state, local, and federal agencies as well as commercial salvagers, the Air National Guard, Navy cutters, marinas and harbormasters. The Coast Guard will continue searching until all reasonable probability of possible rescue has been exhausted. This means that rescue operations will be longer in warm weather than in cold because of the probability of survival.

As you can imagine, the cost of rescue operations can range up to $100,000 a night. The Coast Guard asks anyone with knowledge of a rescued boat or person to please call any Coast Guard station or the operations center at 395-4405 (for the Long Island South Shore). The Coast Guard can ten verify a rescue has been performed can call off any further search operations.

By the way, if you have called for help or suspect someone has called to find you, and you hear one of the HH-60 helicopters overhead- and you will hear them- please show yourself and wave your arms wildly, so that the rescuers can spot you.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Instead of docking my boat this year, I would like to trailer it. What should I look for when buying a trailer? MB, Bayshore, NY.

A: Dear MB: Trailering your boat gives you access to different cruising or fishing grounds. Making sure you have the proper trailer for your needs will allow you to have a pleasant experience when launching and retrieving your boat from the water as well as when driving on the highway.

One of the major factors in determining what type of trailer you will need is the weight and size of your boat. To determine the weight capacity of the trailer, you must add the weight of the boat hull, motor, fuel capacity multiplied by 6, estimate of the weight of the extra gear on board plus added accessories such as T-Tops, anchor windlass, etc., and a small fudge factor of about 100 pounds. This total weight calculation should be rounded off to the next highest standard weight rating of the brand of trailer you have selected. For example, if your total weight calculation is 2400 pounds, and the trailer manufacturer only makes a 2300 or 2800 pound model, you should go with the larger weight capacity trailer.

Bunk or roller trailer? Bunk trailers are float on type trailers. This means the trailer must be fully submerged so that the boat can be floated onto the bunks that are straight carpeted surfaces. These trailers are great for lakes and those places where tide variations are small, or for smaller lighter boats under 16 feet. Roller trailers have multiple rubber rollers that make launching and retrieving less difficult as the boat rolls onto the trailer rather than sliding as with bunks. A line from the winch is attached to the bow of the boat to pull the boat over the rollers onto the trailer. Because the rollers are on arms that flop back and forth the roller trailer will generally center and align the boat upon the trailer.

Painted or Galvanized? A galvanized trailer is treated to prevent or reduce corrosion caused by immersion in salt water. A painted trailer uses paint for its protection. Once a small scratch appears in a painted trailer, salt water will eat away at the metal parts rapidly. Painted trailers should be used in fresh water applications.

Brakes or no brakes? New York State law requires that trailers with over 3000 pound capacity must be equipped with brakes. For those of you with fewer than 3000-pound capacity trailers, brakes can be added.

Brakes make the load easier to stop, especially if you have a large boat and a smaller tow vehicle.

Quality and sizing. Look for a trailer constructed of heavy gauge materials, which will last longer and support the boat without distorting the hull. Sizing the boat to the trailer should be done by the trailer dealer. This process insures the rollers conform to the boat bottom, and that the load is adjusted to place the proper amount of weight on the tongue. Tongue weight is important so that the load travels straight and true down the road.

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: Last fall I fogged my outboard engine when I put it away for the winter. Today I went to drain the lower unit and found mostly water came out before a very little bit of gear oil. I turned the prop and it makes a grinding noise. Am I in trouble? EB, Laurel NY.

A: Dear EB: at the end of your season when you winterize your engine you should not only fog the motor, but you should always drain and refill the lower unit gear oil as part of your winterizing process.

Draining the gear oil allows you to see if any water ingestion has occurred during the season. Small amounts of water will mix with the gear oil turning is a milky white color. Water ingestion is often caused by failure of various seals within the lower unit. Once drained of oil, take the lower unit to your repair shop and have it pressure and vacuum checked which will often lead you to the failed seal.

Because the lower unit was not checked in the fall, the water may have caused severe damage. The grinding noise you hear may be bearing or gear damage due to rust and corrosion. The only choice you have is to disassemble the lower unit and inspect the internal components. For this you will need to bring a big bagful of money to the repair shop. Gook luck!

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Q: Dear Boat Talk: My husband has already informed me not to bother him this winter as he has many projects lined up for his boat. What could he possibly be doing to his boat that would take all winter? Lonely, Port Jefferson, NY.

A: Dear Lonely: Your husband reminds us of a customer who came home from work, sat down in his favorite chair, turned on the TV, and said to his wife “Quick, bring me a beer before it starts.” His wife looked a little puzzled but brought him a beer. When he finished it he said, “Quick bring me another beer, it’s gonna start.” This time she looked a little angry but brought him a beer. When it was gone, he said, “Quick, another beer before it starts.” “That’s it!” She blows her top. “You loser! You waltz in here, flop your fat backside down, don’t even say hello to me, and then expect me to run around like your slave. Don’t you realize that besides working all day, I take care of this house, cook, clean, do the laundry and the lawn….” The husband sighs, “It’s started”!

We’ll just bet that you husband is getting his “honey do” list started before you have a chance to hit him with yours. The boating off-season is a great time to upgrade, improve and repair all the things on your boat that you have been thinking about all season. A lot of this work can be done on your boat in a solar heated environment when you have shrunk wrap your boat and installed an access door. Here is a list of the most often requested projects:

• Install a swim platform and telescoping ladder
• Add an auxiliary outboard motor and bracket
• Install a GPS and Depth finder combination unit with transducer
• Install an AM/FM/CD stereo radio with speakers
• Replace the handheld VHF radio with a built in 25 watt unit
• Repair the broken antenna for the VHF radio
• Put in a lighted compass that actually has fluid in it
• Add additional rod holders
• Show your support by adding a US Flag or ensign and pole holder
• Replace the tattered boat canvas
• Add extra cup holders
• Install an anchor windlass
• Put a power winch on your trailer
• Add accessory holders for your cell phone, binoculars, or trash
• Rearrange the fore deck so the anchor can be deployed easily
• Add additional cleats to make mooring easier
• Replace the out of date fire extinguisher and flares
• Repair the electric horn
• Inspect all the life jackets, clean the good ones, throw away the non-serviceable ones and replace as needed
• Check the dock and anchor lines
• Replace the trailer lights and wiring
• Put in a salt or fresh water washdown system
• Install a bait cutting table
• Remove, clean, and re-oil teak
• Add disk brakes to the trailer
• Install a second battery system
• Add a pivoting tongue jack to the trailer
• Replace the frayed trailer winch cable
• Reseal or re-bed thru hull fittings
• Replace broken rollers on the trailer
• Remove, inspect and re-grease the trailer bearings
• Install a battery isolator or battery charger
• Install a 12 volt accessory plug at the dash
• Add a remote controlled spotlight or a halogen floodlight
• Install a carbon monoxide dectector
• Add an automatic float switch to the bilge pump